Which master is right? Did my car burn gaskets?

Guys, my vehicle, which I showed to 8 different masters, was made with 2 different diagnoses. It will be a little long, but let me write the item and ask my questions. First of all, I am someone who gives maintenance before km comes, but I am not someone who looks at car oil. My car is the Peugeot 207 st 2011 model. The 1,6HD. I came a long way about a month ago, went to work the next day. 250m to the house. I stopped the vehicle while getting up in the lights while I was left. When it started immediately, the temperature indicator made a ceiling for seconds and dropped to 90. I looked at the water at the gas station 200m away. There was no water. I put 4lt of water. I called the master, check the water every now and then, let's see. I checked for water reduction for 2 weeks. I saw that there was very little water reduction in a total of 40km of work / home distance. (Up to 10ml daily.) I showed it to the master because I will go on a long journey again. He looked at the water, listened to the engine and said, "Gasket can be burning, you go controlled, when we arrive, we will look at this together with the maintenance of km." said. After 400km of long roads, I saw 1 liter of water and a little “water like institution” like water exhaust. I called the master again, whether this vehicle will return, he will return. 200km. I traveled on vacation; half a liter of water decreased. 400km. when I came back there was again 1 liter of water reduction; however, the water in the water bowl had turned black. It was not oil, but again from the institution. The institution was homogeneously dispersed with water, black like engine oil. My master; The engine burned out, said the engine top block will be ground. While coming to this opinion, he applied the following methods. 1) Filled the water container to the highest level. He started and closed the vehicle 3-4 times; there was an overflow from the water container; he said because he made air from this engine. 2) Black said it was related to the gasket burning. Then I showed it to 7 more masters. 2 of them; he saw a small fracture in the "oil cooler" of the car. Saying that this may be the reason for the decrease of water; They said that it was unreasonable to make a rectification immediately, it would be better to change it first, clean the chemical and all pipe hose etc. and then test it on the road. They even had anti-theses against what the first master said. 1) The air coming into the water container may be from the pump and is normal. 2) They said that the black institution could come from the hoses because the vehicle was dehydrated, this is normal. The current status; There is no more soot in the water container, but for a week, 0.5 liters of water decrease between 40km of work / home. So the amount of auction has increased. Which master do you think is right? Does it make sense to give the vehicle to the competition immediately? At the end of this process, I am likely to be tempered by the car; Is it a very serious job to grind this engine top cover, which they call reclining?

Welcome to mesut first. As the second master says, there is oil mixing in the water from the oil cooler, as I think the oil cooler is different, as the second master says, check the change again. The engine is not a big problem after being a good master of boring, but it is a bit costly because it is diesel. A process of around 150-200 tl, which is called cover grinding, keeps the workmanship high.

If the missing water does not flow out or the most dangerous is not mixed with the oil, it means burning the gasket. If only oil is in the water, you can concentrate on the oil cooler. It may mix from the rising oil pressure due to engine compression to the water from the coolant ... (I personally experienced it myself, it was mixed with the water from the coolant gasket due to the pressure increase, but the conditions improved when it returned to normal, I changed the coolant now, there is no problem) You are very likely to think and burn gaskets. If there is no air in the system, there is no bubble from the reserve water tank. Check it out when you run it in the morning. Considering that the gasket is burning, you will have a total cost between 800 and 1200 TL. This does not have a negative effect, but it is very important to use a suitable cylinder head gasket after the cover is ground. After the cover is grinded, the combustion chambers become smaller in volume and the compression ratio increases. You can get the information of this from the original parts dealer or the recruiters. Cylinder head gaskets are not standard. Ask the master where the water goes ....

@sonerkyl and @madblueblacksea
Thanks for your comments. I did not understand much of these issues, so I took the tool to such masters and I am still in a dilemma. I forgot to write madblue reminded me.

There is no water flowing out of the vehicle. My first master said that it could not be seen because it exited the exhaust.

The masters who said that they originate from the oil cooler saw traces of water drop in some parts next to the oil cooler. And he said that it could evaporate with high heat, so it couldn't be seen.

What I was wondering was that when the water pot was an institution, it was no longer an institution. So is this institution a situation that can occur with gasket combustion? And yes there was no oil in the water bowl. Its appearance was like oil, but the soot dissolved homogeneously into the water as if it had been mixed with the mixer.

Let me quote, they said 1500TL. I am not in money, only when the engine is touched, my enthusiasm will escape from the car.

Let me admit, I wasn't expecting such a quick answer, so let me ask another question.

My first master is the Ford master. I used ford for 6 years and he did all the maintenance. I think this vehicle engine and the ford engine are the same, so if I give it to the first master, should I do it wrong or should I find a Peugeot player?

Thanks already

Hello again guys. I had the car repaired today and I said let me write the results here.

Water leak detected in 2 places.
1) The o-ring on the lid of the water container is deformed. Though most likely, this is due to the fact that I have been doing dozens of times because the vehicle is constantly losing water. So this is not the real water reduction. Because after changing the cover, the water continued to decrease slightly.
2) The honeycomb part of the oil cooler is crushed. And I don't know how many bars of water from the water container, water gushed from there.


The interesting thing is that this place called honeycomb was crushed by the vibration of what it used to say in the car before, but what the master said "this is not an important part, but the protection sheet".

In short, be you, consider the condition of the parts called junk that touch other parts.

Both parts were changed, mileage was maintained. However, 20 km was tested in the final, again, there was water reduction. Master said this was normal the first time. Because it has completely drained the water, put it back, while operating it at idle several times, it has operated the thermostat and there may be a decrease due to this thermostat. He said that the healthy test was to add water after coming home and after the car had cooled down, then to chill and look after using it that day.

This part of my mind freaked out. I don't know if the guy got rid of it. I will test and report again at a suitable time tomorrow. Perhaps, at this point, it would be the answer to this question.

I couldn't find how to add a photo here. Otherwise, I could write shorter.

Sir, first of all, get well soon. I did not read the whole article. Thanks to an apparatus that the gasket of the car does not burn, the masters can learn. It inserts this apparatus with blue liquid into the reserve water tank, if this liquid turns yellow, the gasket is burnt. If there is no wetness under the car, there is a very high potential for gaskets and negligence. Again get well soon.

Even if the air is removed after the water is completely discharged, air can still remain. Use a few times to the fan on temperature. Don't forget to put the heating on hot.

Let me write the last situation and give information after a long time. I last traveled 5000km after replacing the last oil cooler. There is still a water leak. However, this leak; It occurs when I go up to 150km / h. When I use it at 100-110km speed, it requires only one tea cup every 2 weeks. The institution, which is like the exhaust institution coming to the water container, is over, it no longer occurs.

First of all, drain the water in the radiator and add new water to remove the air. try it like this.

[QUOTE = Peugeot35] My teacher first drain the water in the radiator, add new water and bleed it. try it like this. [/ QUOTE]

I forgot the air of the radiator. I told the master who changed the oil cooler, it hadn't been there. No, the air had gone wrong. I will do it myself if I knew how. Let me make it happen at another master.

There is no self-confidence and a lot of knowingness on our top. I say, let's take a look at the fiber properly, no, we'll see it like this, and we will lift the fiber with extra expense after two days.

[QUOTE = Oktkor] There is no self-confidence and a lot of awareness on our top. I say, let's take a look at the fiber properly, no, we'll see it like this, and we will lift the fiber with extra expense after two days. [/ QUOTE]

[QUOTE = mesut207] [QUOTE = Oktkor] There is no self-confidence and a lot of knowingness on our top. I say, let's take a look at the fiber properly, no, we'll see it like this, and we will lift the fiber with extra expense after two days. [/ QUOTE]
[/ QUOTE]

I think the same way. They even decide the breakdown upon guess. No need to connect to a computer and look at the code. What happens to our cars. You're getting out of the car. Then, once the car enters the industry, those who cannot correct their waist again come to the market. In the end, the job is working for the dealers, just because the 15-pound part problem could not be solved, we leave the car to the gallery below 2 3 thousand.

[QUOTE = mesut207] [QUOTE = Peugeot35] First of all, drain the water in the radiator, add new water and bleed it. try it like this. [/ QUOTE] [/ QUOTE] Peugeot35 2017-03-13 16:07:10

I accept all the problems related to the radiator, my only concern is not to start the engine. But there seems to be nothing to do.

Run away from the master who calls the top cap directly without doing a compression test.

Hodja, the color of the water is ok .... Have you ever looked at the color of the oil? When the water mixes with oil, it becomes golden yellow. oil starts foaming. so much so that the inside of the cap, where we put the oil from the top, turns yellow inside the engine.

Years later edit: mesut207 2019-05-30 21:57:09

Time passes like water, hodja. I'm glad your problem has been solved.