Unresolved gas cut-off fault

I wish everyone a pleasant forum. I have a 2001 model 206 1.4 Gasoline car. When my car idles, it experiences an overly rich mixture, a popping sound in the exhaust, and minor instability at idle. We can clearly see with the voltage values that the 1st oxygen sensor is drawing rich, both with the Car scann*rpro program on the OBD 2 device and with the Peugeot Planet 2000 program. After this, the car doesn't get any gas when taking off, it stalls, either stalls or continues to idle. The car doesn't report any faults. This stupidity goes away when it exceeds 4,000 rpm. Performance isn't perfect, but it improves. I can see it about 160-170 times on a long road trip. But city driving becomes a complete pain. It feels like someone is pulling the car from behind. There isn't a single part on the car that I haven't replaced due to this problem. - The list is as follows; 2 times, the first oxygen sensor was purchased. Bosch and NTK brand spark plugs, coils (NGK BRAND), 4 injectors (Magnetti Marelli), MAF sensor (original), canister valve (original PSA), and I also bought a throttle body. It was removed from a low-mileage vehicle. Everything you can think of was checked. The problem is this. The first oxygen sensor is unplugged, and the vehicle returns to normal. It's still spitting raw fuel, but it's more stable. Although the sensors we tried were purchased based on the chassis number, all three sensors, including the one on top, are having the same problem. The mechanics say that an electrical problem would directly send a fault to the ECU. But there's nothing wrong with the vehicle. I can't figure this out. I've spent a lot of money, but to no avail. I'm making a personal guess that there might be a ground in the oxygen sensor's electrical line, or that excessive current is causing the sensor to misfire. If this is the case, shouldn't a fault report be filed? I'm looking for your opinions.

Peace be upon you, teacher. Were you able to solve the problem? Because I'm experiencing the same issue and I'm also in Kayseri. data-cf-beacon="{"version":"2024.11.0","token":"11ac6a036a5c4b83a3c20a30a3bc3ba2","r":1,"server_timing":{"name":{"cfCache Status":true,"cfEdge":true,"cfExtPri":true,"cfL4":true,"cfOrigin":true,"cfSpeedBrain":true},"location_startswith":null}}" crossorigin="anonymous">

My problem is similar to yours. 1. The throttle body settings must be properly adjusted. 2. The throttle cable tension must be properly adjusted. - I cleaned the throttle body with brake cleaner, it didn't work. - I replaced the MAF sensor, it didn't solve the problem. - Idle control motor was replaced, it didn't work. My engine was around 1200 RPM when cold. When it warmed up, it was between 1000-1100 RPM. By the way, mine is a mechanical type. (The electronic type requires a reset. They call this something like adaptation.) The inside of mechanical idle control motors can be plastic, and the teeth can easily get crushed or broken, and they can't respond to the command from the engine. Be careful about this. Broken teeth can remain inside and not be seen. I gently pull the idle control motor by hand, extending it, and then tighten it with a screw when I put it back in place. This means the idle hole is completely closed. Like the zero position. After removing the throttle body, I install the idle control motor by visual inspection so that there is precision. During operation, the ECU adjusts this gap by pushing or pulling. My car seems to have a very short adjustment range for the back-and-forth movement. Even a small movement significantly changes the air adjustment. My guess is it opens and closes within a maximum range of 4 mm. - There was an adjustment screw on the throttle body, and even after completely removing it, the idle speed didn't decrease. This adjustment screw is an additional adjustment that supports the idle speed from the throttle cable. The difference is that this screw opens the throttle body cover. By tightening the screw, it allows air to enter through the throttle body cover. This causes an increase in fuel consumption. So, air enters from the throttle body through both the idle hole and, if that's not enough, it provides additional air intake by opening the inner cover. If your filter is bad, it will provide less air, which won't be enough for the engine. When adjusting the idle speed, it's very important that your air filter is new. - After adjusting the idle speed, you need to adjust the throttle response. This is done by adjusting the tension of the throttle cable. It's done with a part behind the throttle body, on the throttle cable. There's a spring on it. After tightening the throttle cable and taking up the slack, we put this spring back into the appropriate ring. When the throttle cable is tight, the throttle body opens quickly when you press the gas pedal, causing a rapid influx of air, and the ECU tries to supply fuel accordingly. This causes the engine to stall immediately when you fully press the gas pedal. After an adaptation period, the ECU finds a balance. This doesn't provide the desired performance. Loosen the throttle cable slightly. If it's too loose, even at full throttle, the throttle body opens only slightly, limiting the fuel flow to the engine. This also means lower performance. So you can adjust the setting according to your vehicle. It's beneficial to use needle-nose pliers to install the spring. - Factors affecting throttle response adjustment... spark plugs, ignition coils, injectors, and the condition of their sockets. In my car, the distribution cable going to the spark plugs was disabled. This cable is 3-pronged... meaning it has two outputs. For spark plugs 1-4 and 2-3. The mechanic disabled it and gave a single output in parallel to all the spark plugs. May God have mercy on him. When I measured the cable and its outputs, there was no problem, so I reverted it to its original state. There were no leaks, cracks, etc. in the cable, but I made sure to insulate it. I replaced the sockets. Sockets are generally parts that can break, rust, or burn out. I bought them from socket repair shops in the industry. -There's a vibration sensor at the back of the engine. If the engine vibrates too much, this sensor transmits this information to the ECU, which then makes adjustments to ensure smooth operation. This affects the engine's performance. Finding, removing, and replacing the sensor requires some effort. My sensor was scorched and burned from the heat. I replaced it. -The oxygen sensor sends data to the ECU, and the ECU makes adjustments accordingly. This ensures that the engine runs continuously within tolerances, switching between rich and lean mixtures, preventing it from stalling. One of the oxygen sensor's functions is to control the quality of the fuel being burned. It seems designed to prevent out-of-tolerance gases from the exhaust outlet.