Temperature problem

We changed the heater core of the vehicle in question 4 months ago because of the expansion of the ends of the heater core. The heater system was working smoothly at first, then the vehicle blew warmly. told

Then when I opened the calorie of the car in the heat, I realized that it was blowing hot and then cold, and I applied to the master.

Now I have consulted this problem to a master I trusted for the reason that this car was overheating, he is the engine master himself.

said there may be a blockage in the circulation thermostat or pipes.

First, we were sure of the pipes, there was no congestion. We even inserted the gas brain and looked at it. Then, we recirculated and changed the thermostat. The gasket of the car seems to hear you burned. That situation came to our mind at the very beginning, but there is no swelling in the water hoses as well. So the gasket is solid. Also, when I open the radiator cap, there is no such thing as foaming and throwing the water out.

Finally, we went to a master who made the repair and replacement of the radiator on the fact that the radiator, which is the decision we have reached today, may be clogged. He claimed that the radiator of the 306s would not be blocked, and if there is such a question mark in his mind, replace the radiator. He said it is easy to say. Anyway, we haven't solved the problem yet and I am waiting for the advice of friends who may have encountered a situation like this and consult my community here.

In addition, when the vehicle is squeezed, that is, watching over 3 thousand cycles, the temperature rises. For example, when you wait at idle, between 90 and 95 is fixed.

Thank you to everyone who reads good forums friends

The water hose coming from the engine was thrown and water was given to the lpg regulator and the other hose was given to the heater core.

The pipe coming out of the heater core was also thrown and the water returning from the lpg regulator was transferred here.

According to my research, this parallel connection is happening and the connection is correct.

teşekürler

Certainly the radiator is blocked and circulation becomes difficult due to the blocked radiator after 3000 cycles. Cooling efficiency decreases.

Do not go through the door of the master draft, which tells you that the radiator of the 306s is not blocked. In order to prevent clogging, all the metal parts that the water comes in contact with (radiator, circulation, thermostat, engine block, heater core etc.) should be 316 quality chrome, and the water in the system should be distilled pure water.

Let me look at a Peugeot catalog for a second, perhaps automotive engineers have done it so bored ...

Actually, I went to the radiator master who recommended me to whom I asked around. I do not want to give a master name in Alibeyköy. When I work at idle in my car, the temperature never rises.

I am also grateful for your concern.

Greetings,

If you put antifreeze in your car, I think if you didn't put it in red antifreeze, try it. If there is rust, it can be drilled, but I think it will open. It also reduces the heat of the vehicle. Do not go to the master who says that the radiator is not blocked. I did not understand what he thought again :) I think mine can only have a suggestion effect. Also, if there is no puncture, I say antifreeze after that.

Another method is that the radiator must have 5 channels in the 306's. The problem had been fixed in a friend's 306.

The other thing said that the top cover gasket is intact, but I think replace it is something like 50 TL and also check the top cover. Also, if you try the tool on gasoline, it does the same problem. If not, it may have been a problem from LPG. These are the things that come to my mind for now.

I hope your problem will be fixed soon

Greetings,

If you put antifreeze in your car, I think if you didn't put it in red antifreeze, try it. If there is rust, it can be drilled, but I think it will open. It also reduces the heat of the vehicle. Do not go to the master who says that the radiator is not blocked. I did not understand what he thought again :) I think mine can only have a suggestion effect. Also, if there is no puncture, I say antifreeze after that.

Another method is that the radiator must have 5 channels in the 306's. The problem had been fixed in a friend's 306.

The other thing said that the top cover gasket is intact, but I think replace it is something like 50 TL and also check the top cover. Also, if you try the tool on gasoline, it does the same problem. If not, it may have been a problem from LPG. These are the things that come to my mind for now.

I hope your problem will be fixed soon

Hello, the red antifreeze pierces everywhere in an old, especially unused antifreeze vehicle. The number of problems and expense increases only. It is the blue antifreeze that should be used in this vehicle.

The piece you call the upper cover gasket is 50 lira, lonely crafting etc. at best, 600-700 TL

In addition, there is no more radiator cleaning at this time. It cannot be said by saying 5 channels and 4 channels. The problem to buy and follow the new one is radiator.

I'm a 35-year-old mechanic boy. I grew up in these things. I've been dealing for 7 years myself. If the gasket burns, the gasket between the cylinder head and the block burns.

The cylinder head is removed. Bending is ground according to the decay condition. If (150 TL) cannot be recovered by grinding, a new cylinder head is taken.

Grinding the block surface may be required.

The oil, water, circulation pump and triger apricot are replaced with new ones. (300TL)

Then, the craftsman is paid a fee according to his place (200-300 TL).

It is the valve, not the valve you mentioned. Valve cover gasket is 40-50 TL.

We also wish you to review the way you address.

" The other thing said that the top cover gasket is intact, but I think replace it is something like 50 TL. Also, check the top cover.

You explained it here as something very simple and cheap. I said it wasn't that simple and cheap. As you already said, if there is a capillary crack etc., the vehicle will inflate the hose. When the pressure increases, the expansion vessel cap discharges some of the water into steam. In other words, water reduction is also observed. I repeat the problem of this friend old and clogged radiator.

Have a nice holiday.

I'm a 35-year-old mechanic boy. I grew up in these things. I've been dealing for 7 years myself. If the gasket burns, the gasket between the cylinder head and the block burns.

The cylinder head is removed. Bending is ground according to the decay condition. If (150 TL) cannot be recovered by grinding, a new cylinder head is taken.

Grinding the block surface may be required.

The oil, water, circulation pump and triger apricot are replaced with new ones. (300TL)

Then, the craftsman is paid a fee according to his place (200-300 TL).

It is the valve, not the valve you mentioned. Valve cover gasket is 40-50 TL.

We also wish you to review the way you address.

I'm a 35-year-old mechanic boy. I grew up in these things. I've been dealing for 7 years myself. If the gasket burns, the gasket between the cylinder head and the block burns.

The cylinder head is removed. Bending is ground according to the decay condition. If (150 TL) cannot be recovered by grinding, a new cylinder head is taken.

Grinding the block surface may be required.

The oil, water, circulation pump and triger apricot are replaced with new ones. (300TL)

Then, the craftsman is paid a fee according to his place (200-300 TL).

It is the valve, not the valve you mentioned. Valve cover gasket is 40-50 TL.

We also wish you to review the way you address.

Hello, as I mentioned above, I do it as a father's profession and as a hobby. I'm an environmental engineer myself. I live in Kocaeli. If your path falls, I try to help as much as I can. You can also reach by private message. I lived in İzmir Aliağa for 1 year. I also have friends from that circle. I can also refer to them.

Good evening.