Pug 106 rear brake pad + center replacement

Rear brake pads replacement,

Important reminder: This is prepared for informational purposes only.
I do not accept responsibility for any errors, injuries or injuries that may occur.
Consult your doctor and / or pharmacist for any possible mistakes.

Necessary tools and materials photo 1.

1 set of brake pads - Preference Ate brand (right + left) 2 brake centers (cylinder),
1 set brake pad spring set - preferred Ate brand - 0,5lt hydraulic oil,
10 imbus keys, 11 open keys, 8 star keys
pliers, screwdriver (flat), 19 socket + extension,
32 socket wrench, moment wrench (150-200Nm) 8 star wrench,
hammer,





As usual, we loosen the wheel bolts while driving our vehicle on a flat surface.
(WE DON'T PULL THE HAND BRAKE ABSOLUTELY), take the 1st gear, chock the front wheels.
we lift it with kirko, and take it to the coffee table.
we remove the tire and remove it with 32 bite + extension in the hub nut
(need to be careful, this nut is too tight) Do not drop the tool from the coffee table.



We take the campaign. (often difficult and attractive help may be needed)
We remove the handbrake wire and remove it to the blank. we remove the old pads .


As in the photo below; we follow the brake center with 10 imbus nuts and open the brake pipe 11
We connect it to the brake center with the key. We follow the pad + springs and the hand brake.



Finally, we follow the campaign ( attractive help may be required,
Do not hit the drum directly)
put a piece of wood on the campaign and use it as a hammer)

After entering the drum half-way (after putting the washer + nut with 32 bite
then you squeeze the campaign into place)

"32" washer + nut in the middle with ABSOLUTE SWITCH (140 - 150 Nm)
We are compressing. Reason ; First of all, for our safety and because of excessive tightening, the nut does not lick out.

The tightening-fitting-power of the cars for almost all nut-bolts is separate.
It is also impossible to calculate with wrist strength. Some bolts + nuts 10Nm as required
some may be 140-150Nm.

I painted the drum with zinc spray to protect it from rust - (covered)
For those who wish, they can paint with special paint resistant paint.
The benefit of a zinc coating is that it both protects it from rust and changes tire.
In the meantime, jantin prevents it from sticking to the drum.

Veeee,
we follow our tire. Here too, 90-100Nm with torque wrench.
This is absolutely essential for our safety.





After all the work is done, we need an assistant to get the brake air.

1 person will be inside the vehicle and will be on the brake pedal for 10-15 times.
foot will remain pressed to pedal, other person, 8 star from the brake machine
will get the air in the pipes with.
Slightly loosen the bleeder nut behind the brake center,
The foot of the person who presses the brake pedal inside will go down to the floor of the vehicle.
will always keep you pressed. This process in the brake center and in the entire system
it will continue until you get the air. In brake fluid,
We do not forget to fill it from the hydraulic cabin.


Long beach 2010-06-01 12:25:12

It was super ... I wish I could do such things ..

thank you for your health

Thanks for sharing ..

I got the right rear complete drum springs hydraulic center beside the inside with a complete set. Where can I find it painfully?

I changed the new centers and got 160 lira including the setting :(
Actually, I could do these things myself, but it was a pity I saw this post late.
I would buy the ingredients at most 80, thanks to the friend who prepared it to me.

Thank you very much for your work.