Pasta - About Polishing

oguzhankucuk61 2017-06-14 01:07:31

I always want to do this myself but I couldn't find an opportunity. I bought neither material nor anything else. Then I said there are fast polishes, let me spray them. It is not bad for them, I am managing with it for now, sometimes I apply wax.

Fast lacquer I thought for ease of application but especially the polish of the hood is almost non-existent. I plan to have a nice introduction and then polish quickly.

you can do it with odor or cotton. A friend of mine was bringing industrial cotton, I was doing it from the front, it was not like the usual medicine cabinet cotton. I made the last cake with a microfiber cloth. I was successful.

I @maximus
Thank you, I have a crop on it, I suppose I'll do it with it.
I will pay attention to the masking event.
I gave up the clay, I will use ipa after washing.
After the cake, I will take the residues with a slightly damp mf and complete the process with 3 polish sponges :)) I heard the megiuars meth very much. But the place I bought had turtle wax and sonax. Turtle's cake was saying thin scratch, so I preferred sonax. Let's see, I'll share before and after :) If you share the results, we will have an idea. Thanks

[QUOTE = OguzhanKucuk61] I thought fast polish for ease of application but especially the polish of the hood is almost non-existent. I plan to have a nice introduction and then polish quickly. [/ QUOTE]

Sponge pads pass the cake with a very nice one and polish in the other one. I would say clean the tool with shampoo well. Apply, polish with a high quality microfiber cloth after drying for a while. For the next washings, you can use fast spray polishes in order not to lose the shine. In the most amateur way, I always do as I have described, I have not seen any damage so far.

Master, I want to do exactly what you said and buy it at the first opportunity.

[QUOTE = samet206] Sponge pads pass the cake with a very nice one and polish the other one. Apply the liquid polish, after it has dried for a while, polish with a quality microfiber cloth. For the next washes, you can use fast spray polishes to avoid losing the brightness. In the most amateur way, I always do as I have described, I have not seen any damage until now. I did not use.
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[QUOTE = samet206] Sponge pads pass the cake with a very nice one and polish the other one. Apply the liquid polish, after it has dried for a while, polish with a quality microfiber cloth. For the next washes, you can use fast spray polishes to avoid losing the brightness. In the most amateur way, I always do as I have described, I have not seen any damage until now. I did not use.
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If I wash it after the cake, wouldn't I open the scratches filled by the cake?

[QUOTE = OguzhanKucuk61] [QUOTE = samet206] Sponge pads pass the cake with a very nice one, polish the other one. I would say clean the tool with shampoo well. Then wash the car again, dry it. Apply the liquid polish, after a while, polish with a quality microfiber cloth. For the next washings, you can use fast spray polishes in order not to lose the shine. In the most amateur way, I always do as I described, I have not seen any damage to date. I used the material only in glasses, I did not use it in the bodywork.
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If I wash it after the cake, wouldn't I open the scratches filled by the cake? [/ QUOTE]

I know that it is heating up the paint and covering the scratches in the cake polish and I know that I am wrong. If it's true, I think washing won't reveal scratches

Let me add that the more the paint is polished, I know that the paint in the car becomes thinner. Therefore, do not make a cake polish every time you blow your mind, especially with the machine. The manual is not that effective anyway

[QUOTE = Uzunca961] Let me add that the more the paint is polished, the thinner the paint in the car gets thinner. Therefore, do not make a cake polish every time you blow your mind, especially with the machine. The manual is not that effective anyway [/ QUOTE]

It is true that the paint surface and the cake get hot when making the cake with the machine. Because of the transfer. But I don't think there is anything like heating up scratches. The cake disperses the paint layer and ensures that the scratched places are filled. If the scratch is too deep, I know that the cake will not work and retouch.

I am aware that the cake thinens the paint layer and that the excess is harmful.
But my lion's hood needs it.
As I mentioned in my previous posts, I plan to do a good general cleaning and often back up only with a quick polish after wax polishing.

But will I just wipe it after the cake? Will I wash it? Will I delete with IPA? You have to find the answer to this :))

First of all, what I mean by washing there is not to wash with fresh water, but to remove the unwanted cake residues left on the surface after the cake. Maybe this is not needed since there is not much residue when it is made with the machine, but the cake made by hand has misting and residues, I cannot proceed to the polishing process without cleaning it. If you are not talking about a different product, the product you are going to apply will not fill the scratch-free scratches on the varnish surface before polishing and some scratches that do not come out of the wash, this scratch does not fill. You will already get the result you want to get from the cake.

Thank you very much for your information sharing. I have a lot of questions in my head because I will do it for the first time. It is dragging each place to a different place. Don't get me wrong, I don't question you or information. I'm just trying to learn the truth.

The product I will use is the scratch remover paste that I shared in the photo. I was hoping that it would fill these scratches. It is also the place to say that there is nothing left in the hood for varnish. The paint layer is publicly in front of me. Should I not use the cake in this situation?

The meaning of metallic paint is varnish on the paint, that is, there is also a varnish layer on the paint layer that gives the color of your car. In opaque paint, varnish is absorbed into the paint and gets its gloss from here.

I just read a post like this. There is more, but this is the point that interests me. This means that there is no varnish on the paint in my vehicle. In other words, there is no such thing as varnishing. (?)
So what is maturing over time? The paint itself? Is it a varnish that is fed into it?
Or the polish on it?
What to do ?

Guys, let me add some information.

Paint is not touched in the pastry polish business.
It is played with varnish.
Varnish thickness varies a lot depending on the brand model.
Scratch is not filled with cake. The cake softens the varnish and varnishes, and the scratch is filled with varnish again.
The varnish that comes to a certain temperature when it is made with the machine (because it dissolves the varnish) softens and scratches fill.
When dealing with pressing while doing it manually, varnish is applied without warming .. But it is very tiring ..

If you play with varnish by hand or machine and lift the varnish up to the paint, it will not be irreversible. In this case, the paint disappears, very fast sunburn occurs and the paint begins to pour.

And the last polish is done. The polish fills the scratches, covers the surface, gives an extra shine. It has a short life.

I had eaten the friend's head while the man was driving my car .. I learned a lot .. I even made a polish for another friend's white civic, I burned the varnish in a small place with the machine, the paint underneath was gone.

Appendix: Even if my friend put the varnish into the paint, the paint stays on the bottom while drying, the varnish rises on the top while drying.

[QUOTE = ggitaristt] Guys, let me add some information.

Paint is not touched in the pastry polish business.
It is played with varnish.
Varnish thickness varies a lot depending on the brand model.
Scratch is not filled with cake. The cake softens the varnish and varnishes, and the scratch is filled with varnish again.
The varnish that comes to a certain temperature when it is made with the machine (because it dissolves the varnish) softens and scratches fill.
When dealing with pressing while doing it manually, varnish is applied without warming .. But it is very tiring ..

If you play with varnish by hand or machine and lift the varnish up to the paint, it will not be irreversible. In this case, the paint disappears, very fast sunburn occurs and the paint begins to pour.

And the last polish is done. The polish fills the scratches, covers the surface, gives an extra shine. It has a short life.

I had eaten the friend's head while the man was driving my car .. I learned a lot .. I even made a polish for another friend's white civic, I burned the varnish in a small place with the machine, the paint underneath was gone.
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This is exactly what I meant, in fact, I just misrepresented a bit

[QUOTE = ggitaristt] Appendix: Even if my friend put the varnish into the paint, the paint stays on the bottom while drying, the varnish gets on the top while drying.
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Thanks for the information. Although it does not remove deep scratches, I will make a cake to save from capillary scratches.

[QUOTE = OguzhanKucuk61] [QUOTE = ggitaristt] Appendix: Even if my friend feeds the varnish to the paint, the paint stays on the bottom while drying, the varnish goes to the top while drying.
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Thanks for the information. Although it does not remove deep scratches, I will make a cake to save from capillary scratches. [/ QUOTE]

If you do it with the upper part, you will open new scratches.

The varnish of the pejos is considered fine. Both the car has thinned the varnish for years when it comes to dust mud, sun wash or something. Don't play too much with the cake here, just a little bit of scratches that you see with your eyes. It is this thin lacquer layer that will form a layer and protect the main varnish.

I apply a polish every 3 months at most. Let's protect the purpose paint ..