Maintenance Recommendations for Our Vehicles

1-The most encountered situation in cold weather is the issue of starting. The most important factor of this is due to the expiration of our batteries. In other options, the starter motor coal runs out - it causes the battery not to charge as the connector fails and as a result, the car does not start.

2-Antifreeze is an issue that should not be skipped, friends. In summer and winter, we should definitely use antifreeze in our vehicle and unfortunately, many vehicle users do not care about this issue in our country. The results can go up to huge costs. While only 3 liters of liquid will escape 50 TL, it may cause 5000-6000 TL expenses. When they sell their vehicles, they do not give any information, because I did not put antifreeze, then we take all the maintenance, we add antifreeze, what happens next? It starts from here, there are water reductions, radiator rupture, pipe explosion, cylinder head gasket replacement etc. Then this car is bad.

3-Steering pump malfunctions are encountered in many brands, but especially in our 307 vehicles. It is caused by the oxidation of the electronic board on the steering pump. Repair is possible. With a steering wheel steering, we force the steering pump when the steering wheel turns a full turn, which can cause degradation. In some psa group models, the steering pump gets its power from the engine with a direct belt. It is electric powered in most of the new generation vehicles.

4-belts and chains trimmed with friends and services is an important issue in a lot of different topics available on the internet, especially in the 10 years VALVE 180000 km colleagues say in a situation that is completely relevant usage. Now we shouldn't just hang around and actually I have read a lot of articles on foreign sites about it. In particular, we should consider the engine working hours. While the 20 km road in Istanbul can go in 1 - 1:30 hours after work or departure, the vehicle in Ankara goes for 15-20 minutes. Especially if used in a constant stop and go traffic, which I would recommend 100000 km impermeability to 5 years (this is my opinion completely.) Second V-belt by a multi-vehicle user skipped a topic max. I advise you to replace it in 5 treatments and a few of the main equipment of our vehicles are based on this. (AIR CONDITIONING - CHARGING DYNAMY).

FOR THIS NOW FRIENDS WILL COMPLETE THE SUBJECT AS IT FIND ........

Hodja, you can find the front discs around 150-250 TL. You can use boshc - trw - delphi - magnet marelli - valeo as a brand. Original prices are suitable as well as quality parts. When it comes to pads, you can use 4u - trw - rıw - I recommend 4u both in terms of quality and convenience. It is the brand that I have been using for years. When it comes to disc control, it is already obvious, sometimes if the lathe is saved, it can be made lathe, it can be seen from 50 TL to 5000-10000 km. I do not recommend turning too much, it is more logical to give 150 TL more and get zero.

lining control if you see the difference as in the picture.

Compare the difference I marked with the red in the disk control picture. of course your disks have not gotten so bad

yes, dismounting the tires will be the healthiest control. Separate type of pads are used at the front and back. I think your rear brakes should be on the drum. its appearance is similar to this, we can even say the same. when opened, clean and replace pads. In addition, I recommend that you change the brake fluid.

Some steel rims are also visible to the linings. If you are using sheet rims, the tires should be removed. You can also understand the lining condition from the brake fluid. If the brake fluid has dropped to a minimum, the pads must change at a maximum of 20 thousand km, in fact, their work is finished.

The rear drums change on average 3 front brake changes. Be careful when it changes for the first time, some masters are doing very tight, the wheels are reddening from the heat.

Discs are normally measured with calipers, but I don't think they measure even in service. Instead, brake at 110 120, if there is a flickering in the pedal, the discs need to be replaced.

Always replace the frrn hydraulic fluid. You will see the difference. You make the change very simple even at home. Take 2 cans of brake oil, 1.5 cans is enough. They don't feel cold in the industry either. They don't even do it with money. I did it from YouTube by looking at the "I am repairing" channel.

hello, today I removed the left front tire to see the condition of the pads and discs, the pad looked thinner to me, I measured the thickness of the disk, it was 2.3cm, as well as I saw a free cable and hose as I showed in the pictures. I will go to a mechanic tomorrow, but does anyone know what these are?

The hose is most likely air conditioning drain hose. Unfortunately, I don't know the idle cable. If there is abs, it may be related to it.

hello, today I removed the left front tire to see the condition of the pads and discs, the pad looked thinner to me, I measured the thickness of the disk, it was 2.3cm, as well as I saw a free cable and hose as I showed in the pictures. I will go to a mechanic tomorrow, but does anyone know what these are?

[/ QUOTE]

The pads will last for a while. Go for 30 thousand km, then it will probably change. As for the ruler thickness, it is called replace, and that is 2 mm. most people change it when the pad is finished and the disc starts to scratch. I don't really understand the disks. It would be a few more ways to get it done. from top to bottom. but roughly 110-120, if the pedal does not vibrate when you press the brake, it means no problem.

My vehicle is 2012 model 308 e-hdi. At 60 000 km. I would like to ask our valued pejo users. Should I maintain timing set and circulation maintenance under these conditions? or shall I wait a little longer?

I had the last maintenance done in a private service last week. they told me it was time to change this equipment. I wonder if they want it to make money, I think frankly.

My vehicle is 2012 model 308 e-hdi. At 60 000 km. I would like to ask our valued pejo users. Should I maintain timing set and circulation maintenance under these conditions? or shall I wait a little longer?

I had the last maintenance done in a private service last week. they told me it was time to change this equipment. I wonder if they want it to make money, I think frankly.

First of all, welcome to us. Let me tell you, teacher, I think that if you live in Istanbul, the engine's hours of operation will not be the same as the same vehicle in Ankara. After all, if you love your car, it's not worth the risk. After all, it is an 8-year tool and I think if you do not have a financial problem, I recommend you to do as follows.

1-timing set

2-circulation pump

3- v belt

4- we are antifreeze

5- brake hydraulic oil

The vehicle shakes incredibly, especially on take-off and shift to 2nd gear.