This is my first time owning a Peugeot and I'm happy to join you. I love cars and have always seen great posts and valuable information here while browsing forums. This day is finally here. Let's start with the picture. My Car and Engine (I'm sorry for the subtlety) I'm torn between the Ford Mondeo 2.0 and the 508 HDI 2.0. I bought the 508, which I've liked for a long time. I bought a car with a LOT of problems and a LOT of money. Cheap meat stew :) They didn't even look at the car. Without further ado; my car has various fault codes. So, can anyone who knows which ones please comment and share some information? Car Scanner ELM OBD2Version: 1.112.3/401123/GPDTC reportConnection profile: Date: 28.10.2024 15:16:30=============================OBD-IIOBD-IIDTCs: 5----------------------------P0487 [0x0487]Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system, throttle position control - circuit malfunctionStatus: Confirmed----------------------------P0215 [0x0215]Fuel shut-off solenoid - circuit malfunctionStatus: Error pending----------------------------P1497 [0x1497]Status: Error pending----------------------------P1496 [0x1496]Status: Error pending var ----------------------------P1499 [0x1499]Status: Error pending =============================Engine control unitDTCs: 1----------------------------P0215 [0x0215]Fuel shut-off solenoid - circuit malfunctionStatus: Error pending Also; - I need to replace the xenon adaptive headlight motor. - The steering pump needs to be replaced because it constantly makes noise. It starts like a bee buzzing when the car starts. - I have keyless entry and start, but keyless door opening from the left door does not work. I have to open it from the right door. - Problems such as engine mounts etc. are getting smaller. Now I have encountered a new problem. 2 problems in fact. ** The other day, the battery in the spare key died. I turned it off by pressing the start button for a long time and went into the house. In the meantime, the battery must have died. It suddenly stopped working. It was acting invisible intermittently before. Then I drove with the other original key for a while. However, I took out its battery while the car was running, and I took out the battery inside the car and put it in the other. Being smart, I replaced the working battery to wonder if it was the remote control or the key that was faulty. It didn’t work. However, when I did that, my working key also stopped working. I think it’s because I did this inside the car while the car was running. I’ve done it at home as well and there was no problem outside of range. Now both of my keys DO NOT WORK AT ALL. NOTE: I never got a warning on my screen saying the remote control battery is low. I don’t know if there is one either. ** Yesterday, I pulled out the dipstick to check the car’s oil, wiped it off well, thought I’d put it in and out and check the oil level. The tip of the dipstick remained where I put it. Those who know know, I don’t know why, but the engineers made a 6-7 cm piece of plastic. It’s a long, hard plastic, and naturally, it broke. I heard a clicking sound when I put it in, and when I pulled it out, there was no 4 cm section. It will probably come out during an oil change, but should I wait until then? Or should I have the oil pan removed and changed again, even though I had an oil change 4 months ago? By the way, I hope it works out. In short, I love the car. I bought it for a long trip anyway. The main problem is the inspection in February, and it's because the EGR is malfunctioning, the headlight motor isn't working, and the wiper motor, of course, isn't pumping water, so it's going to fail the inspection. My biggest concern right now is the EGR. Removing the EGR isn't an option. I won't have it done. However, it won't pass inspection even with an EGR error. Normally, the engine light comes on sometimes because of the EGR. It drops slightly due to traction, but sometimes... Once it stalls, or the next day, it doesn't stay on, and the error goes away on its own. But SOMETIMES it reappears unexpectedly. I had STP's Gold series reservoir additive. It hasn't burned out in days since I used it, but it shows up when I check the system with an ODB, and that's why it won't go away. Now, how can I solve the EGR? So, should the EGR valve and EGR cooler be replaced as SET? Or is there a simpler solution? I wouldn't mind some help from those in the know, and a little chat about the 508, which I'm curiously exploring. If you've read this far, thank you.
Turgut M