Engine Mounts and Clutch Slippage

The video also states that the pressure plate leak could be caused by the engine or transmission mounts, possibly due to a millimeter of play between the engine and transmission. Is such a thing even possible? Isn't the transmission connected to the engine by studs?

Apparently, that friend has never installed a pressure plate before. As you mentioned, the transmission is attached to the block by peripheral bolts. Even a millimeter of play in this area will cause incredible noise and knocking. If the travel pins on the crankshaft wear out and create play, the pressure plate will push the crankshaft forward, causing it to slip. However, anyone who knows nothing about cars will know something is wrong just by looking at the noise. Other than that, there's nothing externally causing the clutch to slip, except the clutch itself and the flywheel.

Actually, since you understand, sir, I'd like to tell you the story in a little more detail now that I've found you. A year and a half ago, they said the clutch release bearing was making noise, and they said, "Don't risk it, I might leave it stranded on the road, replace the pressure plate." Since the original had Valeo in it, I bought a Valeo brand pressure plate from a trusted place, and the flywheel surface was clean, so the replacement was made. I was happy with the first replacement and there were no noises. However, during this pressure plate replacement, the mechanic damaged one of the cables going to the ECU. The car was jumping about once a day. Of course, a lot of parts were replaced for about 8 months to figure this out. Because the ECU didn't leave any fault records, but when going over potholes, that cable was loosening contact, and the car was jumping momentarily. One day, I got stranded on the road and it took another 3-4 days to investigate, and the problem was discovered in the ECU. But the transmission had already been lowered. Before the transmission was installed, the mechanic ordered a MEHA brand flywheel. Because when I constantly tried to start the car, the ECU wouldn't let it work, and the starter motor would hit the flywheel. Anyway, everything up to this point was normal. We thought it might be possible. They installed a Meha flywheel and a clean Valeo pressure plate, which we had replaced 8 months before the incident. Everything was installed. We realized the clutch was empty at the bottom. They bled the clutch using the push-pull method. They gave me the car. While driving, my gear changes were initially more squeaky than before. I told them about it. They said it would go away with time. Then, there was a noise at idle. This sound was the same as the clutch release bearing, but this time it didn't go away when I pressed the clutch; it went away if I engaged any gear. It would happen again when I put it into neutral. Since the other mechanics where I was weren't as good as him, I didn't go anywhere else. A few months later, it started leaking pressure.

The Valeo brand is a company that originally manufactured clutches, but in our country, clutches that are sold as box-bolt Valeo are frequently available. There's also a quality difference between the OEM Valeo and the original Valeo. Mehao is a domestic brand, and I've never used one before. With parts like this, which are expensive to remove and replace, quality must always be maintained at the highest level. Otherwise, the brake pads can slip or wear out every 5, 6, 8, or even years. Furthermore, even with new, top-quality parts, user error can quickly cause the clutch to deform. For example, I could intentionally finish a new clutch in a few days. Regarding the transmission, here's what happens: Now, the transmission is lowered for the clutch. The right and left axles are removed before the transmission is lowered. Some lazy mechanics are too lazy to open the transmission oil plug and drain the oil. When they remove the axles, they spill transmission oil on the ground. In the process, some of the transmission fluid doesn't drain, but they add it. Some do this. They do this to say, "We added transmission fluid to you, and the price is like this." Some people say the drained transmission fluid needs to be changed, so they change the transmission fluid accordingly. (In other words, a complete oil change.) Transmission fluid that hasn't been changed for a long time is mixed with iron dust and its structure is damaged. This prevents noise by filling the gaps between the gears and bearings that have formed beyond their limits. Until the new transmission fluid is changed, all the worn gears and bearings from the new fluid and the mileage of the vehicle begin to squeal, whine, and whine. Now, let's talk about the noise you make when you press the clutch or lift your foot. You start the vehicle in neutral. The crank is connected to the flywheel, the flywheel to the pressure plate, and the pressure plate to the input shaft. In short, when the vehicle is idling, the gears inside the transmission rotate. These gears are the gears and bearings on the input shaft. When you engage a gear, the input shaft gears engage the group gears, which in turn rotate the differential. The room wheels, etc., etc., are gone. Now, when you don't press the clutch, the noise you hear when the vehicle is idling is usually caused by the upper and lower bearings of the pressure plate rotating. When you press the clutch, the pressure plate cuts off the power it receives from the flywheel, and the pressure plate shaft stops turning. There's no noise from the bearings that are stationary or stationary. If you hear a noise when you press the clutch, it's because the clutch fork is pressing on the pressure plate's umbrella. There's also a bearing between the fork and the pressure plate, called the clutch bearing. The fork pushes the bearing, and the rotating pressure plate umbrella rotates the clutch bearing. If this bearing is damaged, it starts to squeal. In short, when you press the clutch, the clutch bearing is engaged. The noise is heard at this point, and the source of the noise is the clutch bearing. Gear sticking can be caused by using oil of the wrong viscosity or poor-quality transmission fluid. When we release the clutch, the pinion shaft, that is, the inside of the transmission, starts to rotate. If there is a sound during this time, it means the pinion bearings are beeping. It's been a long time, so I won't be able to proofread the text because I don't have much time. Sorry if it's complicated or I made a typo. Berkay Erdinç2024-01-25 12:23:37

Thank you, Estafurullah. This is a great article. I also went to Maslak Industrial Estate during this 2-3 hour period. Actually, I used to live in the Black Sea region, and since I've been in Istanbul for 3-4 months, I don't know any mechanic. The few mechanic I went to today said they should immediately remove the pressure plate. But I expected them to check the hydraulic oil and any oil leaking into the pressure plate first. Of course, the mechanics aren't very keen on this because they're looking for a big job. Thankfully, there are 6-8 doors in each vehicle, and most of them said they couldn't change it this week. As I was driving, I wondered if this would happen if there was air in the hydraulic fluid. After all, the hydraulic system ensures a complete pressure separation. If I press the pedal a little, say, 70-80% of the time, it sticks to the flywheel, while 30-20% of the time it stays loose, I thought, could this be why it's leaking when I accelerate hard or on hills? Maybe it's a ridiculous idea, I don't know. Because during the pressure change, the hydraulic air was rushed and not properly vented.

What is the vehicle brand?

Peugeot 207 1.4 HDI 2007 model. Brake and clutch working with the same hydraulic fluid system. Antipollution2024-01-25 15:34:52

For some reason, I thought your car was a 206. Except for the 206+, other 206s don't have hydraulic clutches; not all are wired. But since yours has a hydraulic clutch, the situation changes. Was the clutch slave cylinder replaced during the pressure pad replacement? If there's a hydraulic leak, it can lubricate the pads, but if there's an oil leak, the fluid level drops. Depending on the severity of the oil leak, there's a significant drop in the fluid reservoir. A leak also means your brakes won't engage. The hydraulic clutch system is used to make the pedal smoother and more comfortable. A leak in this system, or air in the system, can prevent you from fully depressing the clutch fork due to insufficient hydraulic pressure, even when you press the pedal. So, you're right. This could mean you're changing gear without fully depressing the clutch. This can make shifting gears difficult, and it could mean you're using half-clutch for every gear change. Driving with a half-clutch is what wears out the pads and wears them out. Other Along with all the above, there may be a problem in the clutch lower or upper center (center failure, leak, air in the system, etc.)

So, you're saying, "If there's air in the hydraulics, it can feel like you're driving with half or 30% clutch depressed." When the car is under load, the pressure might be slipping, like a half-clutch. In that case, you need to have the hydraulics checked first. Thanks for the information.

[QUOTE=antipollution]So, you're saying that if there's air in the hydraulics, it can feel like you're driving with half or 30% clutch depressed. When the car is under load, the pressure can slip, like half clutch depressing. In that case, you need to have the hydraulics checked first. Thanks for the information[/QUOTE] You’re welcome. Of course it’s not possible to predict this exactly but it’s one of the 20, 30, 50% possible possibilities. But as I explained, the reason for the clutch slipping is 1. aftermarket or poor quality pressure pad 2. flywheel surface 3. user error (not lifting the vehicle properly, lifting at high speed, using half clutch in each gear etc.) 4. clutch cable problems 5. clutch lower or upper hub failures 6. incompatible hydraulic use etc. By the way, I think your problem is caused by the pressure pad because I’ve heard many times that 4-5 year old vehicles experience pad problems about a year later due to aftermarket pressure pads when the original pads wear out. These include mechatronic double linings. Of course, when solving the problem, starting after checking every detail and making sure prevents unnecessary or faulty part replacement. For such informative information, you can follow my YouTube channel that I opened 3-4 months ago I'll wait.https://youtube.com/@erdincgarage?si=vhXcRqa3ElG8ZhAM

Hello, sir, I changed the pressure plate last week. As I suspected, the pressure plate was oiled. It had been a year since it was changed. But the oil wasn't coming from the outside, it was coming from the plug shaft and rear crankshaft seal. The mechanic changed the plug shaft seal when changing the pressure plate, but they didn't use liquid gasket. He said maybe if they had, there would have been no problem. The rear crankshaft seal, that is, the seal behind the flywheel, hadn't been changed anyway. We changed it this time. However, last year we used 5w-30 in our oil change. Normally, we'd been using 10w-40 for 3 years. The mechanic said thin oil is good for the turbo and that we should use whatever the factory says. Naturally, I think the 5w-30 also caused the oil leak. Because oil has been coming from that side of the v-belt, right at the seal line in the engine, for a long time. That's why I'm undecided about switching to 10w-40 again.