"Çiftlikbank" syndrome in the selection of motor oil !?

[TUBE] 31STvor2Di8 [/ TUBE]
What did the aunt say; " THAT WE THINK THAT HUMAN CANNOT BE FOOL" I say, "First of all, after saying" get well ", I mean," the purpose of what I wrote is not to humiliate / marry anyone else ", there are many experiments done on this subject. Before you continue reading the article, you should definitely watch this experiment to see how even a single person who does not know anything can affect other people negatively; [TUBE] XJjlprBEbd8 [/ TUBE]
NOW CAN WE COME TO THE NOW SUBJECT ...
"Which oil should I choose for my 2006 model 1.6 HDI engine?"
Such a question can be answered by a 15-year-old adolescent, a citizen who has never seen a PSA engine or even a driver's license. Are there engineers involved in the development of the

• 1.6 HDI engine in our discussion environments? I DON'T THINK Are there authorized service personnel who can recommend the oil that is more suitable for the vehicle, even though the boss wants him to sell the brand he makes more profit with? THERE IS NO THOUGH Is there a "well-intentioned master" who says "Put 20W-50, late ... don't give too much money for oil"? A DENK IS COMING BETWEEN

So who should we choose the oil that he recommends?
Even the manufacturer of the vehicle offers more than one option and prints the document it delivered with the vehicle as follows; You can choose 5W-30 / 5W-40 / 10W-40 or even live in countries such as Spain, Portugal, Greece (hot climate) and if you have a gasoline engine, you can even use 15W-50. Of course, there are 2 remarkable details on the same pages;
1-) The first number given with the letter W (WINTER) is the lowest ambient temperature in cold start (0W = -45 degrees / 5W = -35 degrees / 10W = -20 degrees)
second number is the highest ambient temperature for cold start again (20 = +20 degrees / 30 = +45 degrees / 40 = +50 degrees)
So if 5W-30 oil and the air temperature in the location of the vehicle is between -35 and +45, when the engine is running when it is cold, it performs its duty ... " same oil at different temperatures or at the same temperatures of another brand oil. It would be useful to say that it will not work in similar proportions. " When the engine warms up, the value indicated by W does not matter!
2-) Recommended oil brand and type / model
Flowability comparison of different oils with SAE values; [TUBE] V5a4kP- 5Jiw [/ TUBE]
I DON'T WANT TO BUY THIS BRAND
Maybe, there are brands that I did not prefer / bought. Also, we may be open to innovations and even search for adventure. So what do we do in this situation?
I think this article will be quite long ... This is the kind of question that can be asked in the forums because there are people who cannot interpret the technical document of oil to make comparison ... such as mineral, synthetic, semi-synthetic, synthetic, full synthetic,% Let's continue for them without making distinctions like 100 synthetic (adding new technologies are generally better than before);
Yes, the Total Quartz Future 9000 oil is recommended for the 5W-30 in the user manual of the above-mentioned vehicle, the technical documentation of the oil ( http://www4.total.fr/AMO/Liban/PDF/QUARTZ%209000%20FUTURE%205W-30% 20ENG.pdf ) when we look at it, there are 4 different information other than those that do not interest us, which will ignite at 230 degrees and have a specific gravity of 15 degrees, 851 kilograms per cubic meter, and put 3-4 liters of oil in a year ( Data from other When comparing with brand oils such as ASTM D445, it should be noted whether there are values ​​related to the same standard );
1-) Fluidity up to -36 degrees2-) 54.0 mm2 / s (cst) kinematic viscosity at +40 degrees temperature3-) 9.8 mm2 / s (cst) kinematic viscosity at +100 degrees temperature 4-) Viscosity index : 170
Article 1: Thanks to the 5W inscription already written on the oil, we saw -35 degrees enough, the original is -36. Ingredients: oil's resistance to flow 4. item: the higher this value, the less change in fluency due to temperature change. In the old technical documents, the measurement values ​​made at 150 degrees, called HTHS (high temperature high shear viscosity), would write today, most manufacturers do not give this information, but it is directly proportional to cst and like 3/4/5 (if I remember correctly, it may be the lowest 1.7 according to the standard) and generally with braces. are much lower values. The oil that reaches high temperature (more precisely, sulfur, zinc, phosphorus compounds used as additive to react with metal) shows the ability to work in the smallest gaps in the engine, for example between circlips and liners. Here it indicates the separation / non-separation of these from each other. Small values ​​provide protection in cold starting and low fuel consumption in use, while high values ​​cause more fuel consumption in cold starting despite the same wear and same usage. Of course, do not consider low fuel consumption in liters per hundred kilometers, they are very small differences. In addition, if an engine that produces max torque at 1750 rpm is continuously increased to 4 thousand rpm, a high value oil should be preferred.
Most of the engine wear occurs in cold working, a much smaller part in hot running and a small, tiny, tiny part during the working hours. So, why is there no information about -20 degrees of kinematic viscosity in the documents? There could be a logical reason why rule-makers are on the producers 'side, not the consumers' side! By the way, the fact that the pictures of the vehicles used in the races of motor oil packages are placed on the packaging of 100% non-synthetic oil with synthetic technology, full synthetic etc. There is no difference from spelling ... marketing, marketing! The engines that can reach 18,000 rpm and the vehicles that come to traffic are not the same thing! As a result,

• will not be stuck lubricant selection chase someone.
• You can not be sacrificed to marketing tactics.
• 5W-30 oils Turkey's used anywhere.
• 4. The higher the viscosity index in the substance, the better.
• If the data expressed in mm2 / s (and HTHS) is low, it provides better protection in cold starting and if it is high, the engine is hot / revving.

If we don't get on a 400 horsepower vehicle ... When choosing oil;

• A) Provided that the climate is appropriate and in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendation (not according to the situation);

1. "the mileage of the vehicle is low ... not traveled with km": 0W- 20 / 0W-30
2. "The mileage of the vehicle is 200-300 thousand or so ... I knew the first owner, I'm sure it's true km": 5W-30 / 5W-40
3. "vehicle kilometer ohoo oooo ... it shows 130 thousand but ... it reduces much oil!? " : 5W-40 / 10W-40 / 15W-40 / 15W-50
4. "I make a lot of mileage, I change oil twice a year": Low in winter (like 0W-30), high in summer ( Like 15W-40)

• B) Provided that it does not go far from the values ​​of the oil recommended by the manufacturer;

1. "One morning , I run a cold engine at least 2 times a day in the evening, the engine does not even warm up until I get to my destination ";

• a-" I prefer proper speed / economical use ": oil with low cst values ​​(this car is bought) < / li>
• b- "I'm always late, what's the economy?" : oil with high cst values ​​(avoided)

2. "I run a cold engine at least 2 times a day in the morning, but in the evening there is no traffic, I can't always get up in 1 hour": average oil with the values ​​recommended by the manufacturer
3. "I don't ride a week at all, a week 2000 km making it "": average oil with manufacturer's recommended values ​​
4. "I run it in the morning, the engine does not cool down again, mostly I use long distance and proper rpm / economy": oil with high cst values ​​(best engine, this the car is definitely bought)
5. "I got into the car in a very safe time, now whoever I want to give my car": Whatever oil you put in, my pasha! (strictly avoided)
Even if the vehicle's oil maintenance mileage has not come, the oil should be changed every year. Some additives that come into contact with air lose their properties after a certain period of time. When the additive is opened, additives are never added to the engine oil, nor is it recommended by oil manufacturers. stand up to the sweet, persuasive, high-profit aspirations of the "masters"! While the mixing of additives was on the agenda; If it is necessary to add oil due to decrease, the same brand of oil should be added, different brands / types of oil should not be used at each oil change! If changing to a different oil, in filter chamber, sump etc. Maximum attention should be paid to prevent old oil.
Why not!?
Oil producers can increase viscosity index, provide low temperature fluidity, cleaner, anti-foam, anti-corrosion, anti-wear, friction improver, etc. combine different additives with optimum mixing ratios for purposes. For example, neutral sulfonates must be used even though they dissolve the metal-bonded anti-wear film layer, but at an acceptable rate! Also, dispersants such as anti-fouling / cleaning calcium sulfonate prevent the oxide-inhibiting zinc from adhering to metal surfaces. While a manufacturer prefers to neutralize particles that will have a corrosive effect and prevent them from coming into contact with the metal, other producers may have prevented the damage caused by the same particles with the film coating method, and perhaps another manufacturer has applied both methods. Any additives (or proportion) in one brand's oil can negatively affect / completely neutralize another additive added by the other brand to the oil! In the meantime, one might come up with the idea that "even though the producers add addictive additives that reduce the friction coefficient / decrease the wear ..." The answer is hidden between EURO1 ........... EURO7.
< font size = "1"> - A comparison made at 37 degrees; [TUBE] tYkg0oDUXs8? t = 331 [/ TUBE]
Faster engine warming compared to old oil, which is tried with different oil usage provided that there is no problem in the vehicle / If there is no increase in temperature, oil reduction and fuel consumption have not increased (it may be noticeable less), if there is no late working (noticeably less time) due to oil in cold weather (if the valve adjusts by means of a hydraulic system), the valves do not start to come out from the valves when the engine gets hot. If it starts to sound, you should change the oil immediately), if the engine noise and vibration are within normal limits (or better) as in the previous oil, try new oil. It can be said that it is good.
However, in the vast majority of vehicle owners; It seems that every oil they choose is very good, and after a few months this "feeling" disappears. I think the psychology of "I know how many lira I paid ... it's good, it should be good"!
Yes, oil should be paid, not 20 thousand, not 15 thousand, 7 thousand, not 10 thousand ... 1 set of wheels or money spent on a sound system can be maintained for at least 10 years oil / filter, more kilometers or 2 years not saving by changing an oil!
It is my personal opinion ... there may be some details that I have not mentioned. Thanks for reading, best regards

There is a saying from the Far East; "tamper if it works"

The proverb of those who produce this brand in the forum says: "the way things are not interfered"

I don't even wash the outside of the engine!