Battery lamp

Hi friends, there is a problem in my vehicle that I could not find and I would appreciate it if I could not solve it. The battery lamp blinks while looking at it or it turns on continuously and then turns on all the lights on the indicator and causes the intensity of the headlights to go. When this problem occurs, when I turn the contact on and off, the problem ends, everything freezes to normal. 1-contact thermal mi2-sachet header mi3-brain mi4- something else

Hello, hi. The places to be built and controlled were checked. Also, you experience this problem when the engine is hot, so it gives me 30-40 km. there is a probability of bsi possible.

I came to the surfa without stopping for 1700 km short 5-10 minutes breaks, but the battery light went on 4-5 times and gave the error I mentioned. The vehicle does not stop, the tape is working, the interior lights, the glass open and close, the air conditioner continues to work normally. As soon as this situation occurs, everything returns to normal when I turn the contact off and on without stopping. Doesn't the problem continue all the time if it is? Can it be caused by contact thermal? I do not have any problem with AC shut off on the ignition, but first I will check the contact thermal and alternator ground and + cable. kaan2062020-08-24 16:31:49

Yes, maybe. Sir, there is a problem with thermal, but he had to cut off the electricity when you turned off the ignition. As you said, check the chassis ends again, clean and reconnect them. The reason why I say bsı is when the leys get hot, cracks etc. If there is, it may cause such a problem.

When I turn off the ignition, it cuts off the electricity. I checked the battery sase plus and minus connectors and cleaned it, no problem. I need to have the alternator cables and chassis checked, of course, as you said last, there may be a problem in this. Contact thermal is not expensive and I can change it myself ihsallah is it kaan2062020-08-24 16:30:22

I hope it is just a thermal problem, otherwise it can be a bit costly.

Brother, master who understands is hard, some will be coal balls, some alternators, some brains, etc., they will make trial and error, and the problem will not be solved and will be more costly. I eliminated this option because I thought the problem would continue. If the alternator was a regulator, the problem would continue after switching on and off. I do not understand what else could be the source of the problem. I suspect that there is a contact thermic logically because the ignition is correct. Kaan2062020-08-24 19:09:02

[QUOTE = kaan206] Brother is hard to understand, some are coal knuckles, some alternators, some brains, etc. They will do a trial-and-error plug, and my problem will not be solved and it will be more costly. I eliminated this option because I thought the problem would continue because it would not turn on and cool down immediately in my capacity. 2-If the alternator was regulator, the problem would continue after switching on and off, it seems unlikely in this possibility, I don't understand what else could be the source of the problem. I suspect that the contact thermal is logically because the ignition is fixed to the open cap [/ QUOTE] It is likely to be alternator or alternator connector. Dramatic drop or rise in voltage can cause confusion. When you turn off the ignition, the fault may not repeat until the next voltage difference, as the bsi kind of resets itself.

[QUOTE = talip206] [QUOTE = kaan206] The master who understands is hard, some are charcoal, some are alternators, some are alternators, some are brains, etc., my problem will not be solved and it will be more costly. I eliminated this option because I thought that the problem would continue because if the solders were gevsio, etc., the problem would continue because the contact would not turn on and it would not cool down immediately. I suspect that the contact thermal is logically because the ignition is fixed to the open cap [/ QUOTE] It is likely to be alternator or alternator connector. Dramatic drop or rise in voltage can cause confusion. When you turn off the ignition, the breakdown may not repeat until the next voltage difference, as it kind of resets itself. [/ QUOTE] First of all, thank you very much for your answer. What you said is probably the main source of the problem, but I do not understand that when I close the contact, the connector suddenly returns to normal while delivering high or low current. If it was giving high or low voltage, it would turn on the ignition and continue to send the same current as my capacity.

[QUOTE = kaan206] [QUOTE = talip206] [QUOTE = kaan206] The master who understands is hard, some are charcoal, some are alternators, some are brains, etc., they will do a trial and error, my problem will not be solved and it will be more costly. - I eliminated this option because I thought that the problem would continue because if the solders were gevsio, etc. due to the heating, the problem would continue because the contact would not turn on and the capacity would not cool immediately. 2-If the alternator regulator, the problem would continue after switching on and off. I do not understand what else could be the source of the problem. I suspect that the contact thermal is logically because the ignition is fixed to the open cap [/ QUOTE] It is likely to be alternator or alternator connector. Dramatic drop or rise in voltage can cause confusion. When you turn off the ignition, the breakdown may not repeat until the next voltage difference, as it kind of resets itself. [/ QUOTE] First of all, thank you very much for your answer. What you said is probably the main source of the problem, but I do not understand that when I close the contact, the connector suddenly returns to normal while delivering high or low current. If it was giving high or low voltage, it would open the contact and continue to send the same current, the problem I mentioned on the indicator and the headlight intensity would go on and on [/ QUOTE] When you turn off the ignition, the current drawn decreases. This may be enough for bsi to return to its operating range. In other words, this failure may be sudden, or it may be a situation that increases or decreases over time. You can think of it as dripping water overflowing the glass at the last point. Apart from that, although the batteries are new, they can sometimes be defective and cause this situation. You can test the alternator by following this method. Take the multimeter inside by connecting a multimeter to the battery and extending the cable, taking safety precautions. Observe it constantly in motion by turning it to the Dc position. See if there is a deviation in the values when it fails. In this way, you will eliminate at least the battery or alternator options.

I bought a complete original alternator, the problem was solved. Conjector is coal, I didn't want to deal, it was a clean job