307 automatic engine oil

Friends, we are entering the winter, a cold place in Siirt. Which oil would you recommend for my 307 automatic transmission vehicle? 10/40 wouldn't it be fine? It works very loudly in the morning ... They say use boron oil poop, which is changed to bidet oil. Is there any benefit? Thank you

Enter the engine oil model of your car from the site below, which oil is there to use ... there are already red organic ones on the market as antifreeze ...

Thank you bro, but 3 different oils are mentioned on the site 5 / 40,10 / 40,5 / 30 which is the most suitable for me and the (cold) conditions of the city where I live?
5/40 or thinner 10/40?

I think 10x40 is 10/40 bay, so I did it because

But here the air drops to minus degrees 10 wouldn't be enough

1-) No 10-40. None 5- 40. What are these rates? 2-) What is the difference between changing between 5,000 km and 10,000 km? 3-) How many months do we have to change if we have not filled the kilometer ... 4-) If it shows low when I make measurements, what is the reason? Does the oil brand notice much? 6-) Do the additives work? If it does, what does it do? If not, why do they exist? 7-) Is this sump stopper (may also have gasket) and oil filter replaced when changing oil? Answer1) 10-40, 5-40 none. There are 10W-40, 5W-40. In the past, oils were single grade, their viscosity, so they are now called multigrade. Mixture between 5 and 40 can be called oil. The value you see as 10W, 5W is the winter value (W: winter). The smaller the number, the thinner the oil is, the thin oil in winter is acceptable. The other value you see as 40 - 50 is the thickest value. As the temperature rises, relatively thick oil becomes a favorite. It is useful to keep the range wide so 10w-60 is recommended for most gasoline turbos. There are also special racing oils such as 0w-60. 2) It varies according to oil and engine. Since oils such as 5w-40, 0w-30 are fully synthetic (chemical oil that does not contain base petroleum oil, prepared in a fully laboratory environment), they are resistant up to 20 thousand km. In the past, oil technology was not that advanced and the oil had to change at 3000 km. Contrary to what is known, they do not reduce much because they are thinner than the semi-synthetics and mineral oils. 3) The oil filter is made of paper and the acid of the oil dissolves the paper after a while, melts it, it is better not to spend 6 months. 4) Bad oil, engine that started to burn oil, depends on how many kilometers the measurement is made and how much it decreases. It reveals the difference of good oil - bad oil in difficult conditions, which usually results in wrapping bearings or pistons. For example, semi-synthetic oils are cheap, but they do not contain synthetic polymers. Full synthetics are not exactly synthetic, they are mixing base oil into it to reduce the cost. It is useful to choose well-known companies, but not many advertisers. Castrol does not have an oil production factory, wherever it is cheap, it fills it in the box and sells it, so stay away from for example. Mobil - Esso - Shell - Petrofer - Gulf - Texaco - Elf & Total - Valvoline - Penzoil are quality brands that I can think of right now. 6) There is a lot of additives in new generation quality oils. In particular, never additives to full synthetics. Marketing success is the presence of these contributions, they give and sell the gas. Since it is very difficult and costly to investigate, nobody is struggling, oil companies warn that you can no longer contribute. 7) It is not a sump plug, but it is useful to replace the washer, that is, the metal gasket.

thank you my brother was very useful