307 1.6 automatic transmission and torque convector malfunction

First of all, hello everyone, I live in Zafer Istanbul. I became a new member of the forum and I have a 2002 Peugeot 307 1.6 automatic gasoline / lpg vehicle. First of all, let me state that I have been experiencing incredible traction since I bought the vehicle. Especially when the vehicle is full and when it comes to slopes, there are no traces of 1.6 110 horsepower vehicles. I have repeatedly replaced the spark plug and air filter, checked the ignition coil, I have no problem with ignition, my problems are completely related to the transmission. Anyway, 7-8 months ago, like almost everyone else, I was getting Automatic Gear Fault malfunction. Regardless of whether the hot and cold climbed to the smallest slope, the vehicle was hitting it, and after beeping, it gave this fault and locked itself into protection mode, that is, in 3rd gear. Of course, since the slope could not be done with the 3rd Gear, I was continuing the ignition on and off. Then I researched that the solenoids in the gearbox were old type and the factory was problematic. I bought two new types of solenoids and changed them in the industry and finally I got rid of the mistake, but when I changed the solenoid valves, my intermediate gears disappeared as if there were intermediate gears between 2 - 2.5, 3 - 3.5 gears, but they disappeared. It seems that the transmission software with newly installed solenoids has not been updated again. Despite everything, I have an incredible low traction in the car. When the car warms up, that is, 20-30 km without interruption, my gearbox oil is boiling and the gear does not switch to triptonics always says D. But it doesn't give any fault warnings. 1. I do not go up from the gear, I can go at a maximum speed of 30 km. When he enters Snow mode, he moves to 2nd gear, but he moves normally, even if it is difficult. In that way, if I use it a little more, the gearbox oil does not cool down and the car does not react to gas, but if I do it for a long time, it will grasp it in a noisy way to plug it in. Meanwhile, the boiling oil boiling sounds from the gearbox, that is, the gearbox, officially, the bubbles crash. I guess the solution to this problem is to replace my oil cooler. I even change the radiator because when the gearbox oil boils, my engine temperature drops from 90 to 60s, and when the heater is giving hot heat like fire 5 minutes ago, when the gearbox oil boils it blows ice cold and water decreases. My guess is that my oil cooler bursts, so water is decreasing. When the car travels 10 km, that is, when the transmission oil warms up, when it presses the gas, it sounds like a flush. I think that my gearbox has never been touched so that the filter is full and therefore there is a flick of noise because it cannot absorb oil. And after the oil boils, I look at the bottom of the park where I parked the car the next morning, because the gearbox is dripping oil on the ground as much as the palm. I bend down and look under it. There is oil leakage in the form of sweating in the gearbox. I bought the car in 190 thousand, now 230 thousand, when the vehicle is 200 thousand, I got the lpg (atiker grand row) and changed the transmission oil 3 times until now. I put Mobil lt 71141 oil. One month ago, he was giving gas to himself in idle, the cycle went up to around 3000 and moved according to his head. Then I bought the throttle and that problem was solved. But, for example, when the car goes down the slope in any gear in D or triptonics, the speed decreases and when it reaches around 1200, the car suddenly gives gas to itself. The engine does this until it comes out of the compressor and is completely wasted, that is, it gives off and releases gas 4-5 times. this sound is coming. I think it comes from the torque convector. In normal driving, if I keep it constant at that lower speed, i.e. between 1200 and 1700, myself, the metal rubbing sound is still coming. So there is a problem in those times. Afterwards, when my car is in 4th gear, it travels at a full 90 km at 3000 rpm. According to the information I have researched on the internet, the brake sensor may have malfunctioned, when the brake presses the brake, it sounds like it should be in gear, so it opens and closes the lock, but I still changed it (not the red one, not that of the taillight) but it still did not benefit with 90 at 4th gear 3000 rpm. . I think it should have been around 110. Especially in the take-offs and lower revolutions, the car resists officially that I will not go. I can only climb the slopes in 1st gear in triptonics. Also, the car will stay in the cold for 2-3 days, even though I took the gear to D at the first start, R flashes on the screen, so it does not detect the gear I received, then I take it hard again to D. I think there is a lack of contact with the switch underneath, but only a few days when the car lies cold. My vehicle does not do what is called kick down. Normally, suddenly, when you press the gas, it needs to shift to a lower gear and increase the speed, it sounds like a flick, the car does not accelerate, it is drowning, for example, it is forced to kick down at 80 to 100 in 15 seconds. When I want to take off suddenly while I am standing normally or when I want to take a skid or something, I suddenly load the gas, fiss, the air sounds, the explosion is shaking, the car is drowning for 2 seconds and then it gets the gas. As a result, when he connects to the computer, he gives the following errors:
Reviews Engine brain:
1) Intermittent malfunction. Catalyst aging
2) Intermittent malfunction. Vehicle cruise control (RVV) compliance
Reviews Automatic transmission calculator
1) Continuous malfunction. Pressure setting failure (Difference / Recommendation)
2) Remote continuous error. CAN engine torque information. No signal.
3) Remote continuous error. CAN engine torque information. No signal.
4) Remote continuous error. CAN engine torque information. No signal.
5) Remote continuous error. Injection throttle potentiometer (Can) No signal.
6) Intermittent malfunction. Converter lock clutch.
Reviews According to my own estimates, I changed the throttle, but because it gives potentiometer malfunction, I think that my gas problem may be on the gas pedal because the gas pedal also has a potentiometer and according to the severity of the throttle, it should calculate the span of the butterfly and how much fuel it would send, so mine should not be able to calculate it. But then I'm not quite sure if it would give the computer a poor or rich mix failure. Or if the computer says no signal on the potentiometer as an error, does it mean that when I press the gas, the throat butterfly cannot adjust the air it gets into the engine? Or the position of the throttle does not go to the ECU and, accordingly, is it unable to adjust how much fuel the vehicle will spray, like a rich or poor mixture? Reviews I think that the converter lock clutch is locked when the torque convector is locked at a certain speed, but since it gives the malfunction on the computer, is the sensor or something malfunctioning? Do mechanical malfunctions appear on the computer? I guess it is invisible to me because my car burns about half a liter of oil per 1000 kilometers and leaks from seals, but it does not show any malfunction on the computer. I try to reduce it with thick oil and additives. I think I will replace the seals and circulate the ring to the engine.
The engine torque information says there is no signal, I think the transmission cannot transfer the torque information to the engine, or the sensors that transfer it are guessed, but I guess I looked at the zero of the torque convector and there is no sensor in the torque convector. I mean, isn't it the abs sensor and the brain that determines the speed? Could it be useful if I replace the abs sensor and brain? But if there was a problem with abs, wouldn't it be giving clear abs errors on the computer? The initial pressure setting failure (difference / recommendation) is my biggest problem. Does it say that a part that adjusts the transmission pressure is defective, or does the sensor that measures the transmission pressure defective? Ultimately, a part (such as a solenoid) must logically adjust the pressure, and a part must measure this pressure. Yes, I was drowned in so many questions in automatic 307. I am thinking of picking up and selling the car as much as I can, but if I can handle these problems and get a good performance from the car, I can think of getting on for a few more years. I looked at some of the pieces that I thought might work, and I found the following 4 pieces, but I couldn't find out what none of them did. I am very happy if my brothers with knowledge can inform me about what they do or if they play an active role in my breakdowns. I know it's been a bit long, but this Peugeot bent my waist a lot. I realized that there was a nice environment in the forum and that very knowledgeable respected people exchanged ideas and I immediately became a member if I violated the forum rules, please apologize. I would be very grateful if my experienced brothers, who have knowledge or had similar malfunctions, can help. Sincerely .. Reviews

First of all, welcome to us. There is an electrical shortage in your vehicle, but there is a shortage in the gearbox oil cooler, which is not due to this. unfortunately it seems like you will have a lot of money. First of all I recommend you to find a good peugeot master engine ecu etc. sockets will be checked. When you say high engine oil reduction, refit and gearbox repair, you can see around 10000 TL. First of all, you need to solve the engine ecu troubles.

First of all, thank you very much for your interest. Hoşbuldum. 2 faults have been recorded in the engine ECU. The 1st is intermittent malfunction catalyst aging and I think I have to handle this by draining the catalyst. The second one is intermittent malfunction vehicle cruise control (RVV) suitability, I couldn't quite understand what it means, but my car does not have a cruise control. You mentioned the priority of these, but maybe I can cancel the catalyst for the first fault, but I did not find what the second fault meant. As the car has LPG on top of all this, the authorized service vehicle does not even insert it through the door. Maybe the original Planet 2000 software can fully explain the content of these errors, but I am deprived of service. When the fuel prices are so high in our country, they are trying to cut their way in a way even in the alternatives that people are forced to think by thinking about their pockets. This means that; you will gladly use the expensive fuel!

Sir, get well soon. I think the transmission wants revision. I think you can accept the situation and find a solution accordingly. You have already made a lot of expenses by changing many things. I don't think that you can spend more in vain by guessing. If there is an event in the transmission that you refer to as whisper, it is a revision messenger. talip206 2019-12-18 20:47:13

Thank you very much, Mr. Talip. I fully agree with what you say. But that flush sounds only if I press the gas a little hard when my transmission oil overheats. The sound is already very obvious oil squirt. Also, when the car is cold, that is, for the first 40 minutes after starting it, it does not slide back even on the steepest slope. It pushes and goes very stably forward on the straight track. My problem starts when the oil is overheated, that is, 2 hours in traffic. So if I have a system that can cool my oil like a man, I feel like I have no problems. This is like changing the gearbox oil cooler and radiator. As you know, in the 307s, transmission oil passes through two pipes under the radiator. So both radiator and oil cooler are both working to cool the gearbox oil. I can't help thinking about how I would get a result if I changed both before the revision. But what should I lie is that revision seems like a closer choice to me. Normally, the logic is to go from cheap to expensive, but unfortunately all parts are extremely expensive in these automatic transmissions. In the end, the revision seems more logical, but there are a few questions stuck in my head. For example, when revising automatic transmissions, do masters replace electrical parts? For example, do they replace switches, contactors, sensors, or simply the gearbox oil cooler? I don't think they change it. I could not find in Turkey, but when we look at the inner seal Aliexpress`T to AL4 gearbox overhaul repair kit in the links below, felt, etc. We see that there are such pieces.
Reviews product
Reviews The revision masters here are probably getting this repair kit. As you can see, the price is 270 lira. Roughly calculate whether we let in Turkey at 500 pounds. Let's continue later. Lining gears of a gearbox requiring revision must be substantially burned and worn. In the link below, we see that the AL4 transmission lining kit is 250 lira. It says it is original, but I don't know how accurate it is.
Reviews https: //www.otoyedekmarket. com / product / peugeot-307-I-SAZN auto-pad-team man-orjinalb Reviews Reviews Next is the torque convector, one of the most important parts of automatic transmissions, which multiplies torque and transfers power to the transmission. Again, from the link below, when we look at the torque convector price that is zero for the AL4 transmission, we see that it is 2100 lira. Again, he writes an original next to him, but I do not know his accuracy. Reviews Reviews https://www.otoyedekmarket.com/urun/ peugeot 307-gearbox-the-original Turiba Reviews Reviews And let's add that. While the masters are revising the automatic transmission, they of course do not take the torque converter zero. Almost all masters give this drum-like piece, which is a completely closed system, with oil, blades and excessively high pressure, to the torners, then take them back to the gearbox and put them into the gearbox. I think this is one of the biggest reasons why the revised transmissions are not reinstated and that a great deal of efficiency is not achieved. Because when you open and close a closed system with welding, the pressure will decrease in time and cause loss of performance over time. Again, if we calculate logically, the revision fee of a piece with a value of 2100 lira should be in the maximum 500 lira band. Now if we are going to put together:
Reviews 1) 500 lira revision repair kit
2) lining pad 250 pounds
3) torque convector lathe revision 500 pounds
4) 2 pieces of solenoid 400 lira (normally I changed it, but let's assume I changed it again)
5) 4 liters of mobile lt 71141 oil 250 pounds
6) gearbox oil filter 300 pounds
Reviews In total, like 2200 lira

Unfortunately, at the top, unfortunately, our country does not know how our country does not understand, so people who do their best to send people to my hands. As you said, when you buy the parts, I do not guarantee that at this time, such a problem is something that the piece he wears is different. For example, there is a company like this, there is a need for an interview.

When the gearbox changes, they do not touch the electronic components much. In general, mechanical parts change. talip206 2019-12-19 18:19:51

Yes, there is also a guarantee issue that they talk about incredibly funny times. The man revises for 6-7 thousand liras, but gives a 6-month warranty. Even if you only change oil and solenoid without touching the car, the car will walk for 6 months. Here, the masters who finished the piranha you mentioned, guarantee a short time like 6 months because they know that the malfunction will come again in a short time. It means an average of 5,000 km for 6 months and this period is really funny.

[QUOTE = talip206] When the gearbox changes, they don't touch the electronic components much. In general, mechanical parts change. [/ QUOTE]

The bushings are located on the back of the gearbox and have ring-like shapes from metal. The grip bands tighten these bushings and enable the torque to transmit its power to the wheels.

So, as far as I can tell from you, we can see if the bushes are depleted without lowering the transmission. The error I gave 3 in the same way on my computer is this; Remote continuous error. CAN engine torque information. No signal If the bushes you mentioned are also used to transmit torque to the wheels, can I have a problem with the bushings? Also, I pulled the handbrake tonight, took the gear to D and opened the door of the vehicle. In the past, there was a sound coming from new types of solenoids in the form of vizz or cizz. This evening, I opened the door in gear D and leaned a little bit, and there was no electrical sound. I think it should have changed the solenoid valves for a period of 6 months. Could my solenoids be broken again? I had read somewhere that excess oil could clog and disintegrate solenoids. When my vehicle travels 60-70 km continuously and park it, it drops oil under the palm. I mean, when replacing solenoids, the master put too much oil, ruined the solenoids, and does the car remove the excess oil from the drain plug? You said take the oil cooler from the diesel ones, but to my knowledge, the automatic 307s have no diesel option. The factory oil cooler was a little small and could not cool, so they released a new four-plate transmission oil cooler. That is the coolant with code 2275.59 in the link I gave below, I have never heard of the option you call diesel. Also, my car does not slide back even on the steepest slope, forcing that I will go forward on most slopes, unless the vehicle is left in excessive traffic for the first 1 hour after starting the ignition. When the vehicle overheats (since the oil cooler cannot cool), it gradually shifts back on slopes. Sometimes, when I overheat and shift the gear to D on a straight road, it puts itself forward in a rhythmical way, as if the fuel is coming off intermittently. He tries to go just like he is pulsing. I connected this last one to the ignition system, but when the car got to D when it was cold, it went very strong towards itself, and it goes very well without giving gas in the same way. Whatever happens, it starts when the vehicle gets hot. Meanwhile, he does not heat it. Maximum 10-15 minutes after the ignition is switched on (depending on the air temperature, naturally), the engine temperature remains constant at 90 degrees. Then, when I use it in the city for 2 hours or so, when my gearbox is overheated, there is a sound like a flick between the gears and it goes to that volume as the speed increases. When the high gear is at low revs or suddenly loaded into the throttle, a fiji-like sound comes from the gearbox just like the oil squirt. Then, as the cycle rises, the sound goes away. But the strangest thing is that when I stop the gearbox overheating, the car does not move when it presses the gas to take off, then suddenly it grips and puts it forward loudly. It seems as if he snatches the teeth later. And of course, it doesn't go into triptonic gear at the time, it doesn't even go to normal D, I switch to snow mode and it moves in 2nd gear on departures. While this is a warming event, my engine temperature drops very strangely to 50 degrees. While the heater normally blows extremely hot, the gearbox starts to cool like ice when the gearbox heats up. So the engine temperature is falling. I think the gearbox oil cooler is bore or broken, and my engine temperature drops as I guess. Maybe I was silly. I think this is because the gearbox gets too hot and the engine water decreases. Normally, when the gearbox gets so hot, the engine temperature should exceed 90 and reach 100s. In contrast, when the gearbox overheats, the engine temperature, which is always constant at 90, suddenly drops to 40-50 degrees. I can run logic wherever I find exactly where the engine water is driving in the car. It passes through the radiator and under the radiator there are 2 additional pipes for the gearbox, does the engine water go to the gearbox oil cooler? Even if I am going to make a revision, I want to change my oil cooler and radiator and renew the gearbox oil and try it. Oil mobile is of course a quality oil that can withstand high temperatures, but it has lost its property if I think it will be so hot.