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206 Vehicle Not Starting After Tape Replacement

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25.03.2025 16:35 # 1
Quaxis
I have a problem that I wanted to tell you about. I removed the original radio of my 2004 206 hdi car. When I removed the radio to install another one, there were cables that had been previously processed behind it. I used the cables that I needed. 3-5 cables were exposed. Then the car did not start. I connected the cables randomly. The car started. The wipers etc. started by themselves. Then some things happened. The fixed electric cable was cancelling itself after 15 minutes. The door automatic did not work. I fixed it by pulling the cable directly from the battery, but this time the lights on the dashboard did not come on. Do you have a diagram or something like that on how to connect these cables correctly? Is it done by rote? What should I do? Can you help me?
25.03.2025 22:17 # 2
binpda45
Peace be upon you. Brother, I just had the same problem. I removed the stereo and installed a Pioneer stereo. The stereo works fine, but this time the car won't start. The original socket had two 12-volt cables. Both were connected to the same pin. One had 12-volt, but the other didn't. Since they were originally connected to the same pin, I combined them and connected the 12-volt input of the stereo to that pin. I heard beeps near the dash, so I removed the cable. Then, when I turned on the ignition, the park lights stayed on constantly. When I turned on the signals and hazard lights, they worked, but the ticking noise from inside wasn't heard. The low and high beams also don't work, and the car won't start. I need help with the same issue.
26.03.2025 02:26 # 3
Elkadarbiroglan
Hello friends, I experienced the same problem in the first week of Ramadan and it still persists. I bought my car new, a 1.4 2004 model 206. There was a sound system in the car and since I couldn't agree on the price, I asked the previous owner to put it in. He said that he left the original cabinets and that the system would work when I installed an amplifier. Since the amplifier system was expensive, I took the car to a mechanic who did not know anything about it in order to use it in its original form. He completely cancelled the installation and converted it to the original. The guy who sold it said that he connected the cabinets, but even the cabinet sockets for the front doors were not connected. Anyway, we did a trick ourselves. Afterwards, the mechanic said that a chassis cable was pulled from the battery side and let's cancel that too, he cut the cable. I don't know where he cut it and disabled it. Anyway, the radio and the car were working fine afterward. The lights, wipers, signals, headlights etc. were working fully. When I was putting the radio in its place, the radio started to give an error. It went to protection and stopped constantly. When we tried with another radio, the same problem did not occur. It was my expensive stereo. The real problem started after that. The mechanic worked from morning to night, screwing it up. I said, "If I've adjusted the cabs, that's enough, I don't want to leave it alone." He adjusted the cabs, and he left. When I got home, I noticed the car's central locking wasn't working. I took the car back. He checked every single fuse in the car and they were all good, but he couldn't solve the problem. The car locks from the inside while it's running, but it doesn't lock from the inside when I turn the ignition off. Every time I turn the ignition to the first stage, the battery light comes on, and the wipers start working automatically. When I turn the ignition all the way on, there's no problem, but I hear a warning sound every now and then. Sometimes the left park light wouldn't work; I moved the connector with my hand, and it fixed it. When the ignition is off, the car loses power completely. The horn doesn't sound, the hazard lights, headlights, or signals don't work, and the central locking doesn't work. As a solution for now, I manually close the central locking system without getting out of the car. When I turn off the ignition, I lift the driver's door lock and lock the door from the outside. I took the car to a different mechanic, and he said the BSI control unit was faulty and needed to be replaced. The car didn't have any idle problems, but now it accelerates automatically and reaches 1400 rpm. It drops when I accelerate. When I stop at traffic lights, it feels like I'm lightly accelerating. The same thing happens when I slow down to a stop. When I turn the ignition off, the indicator needles remain suspended, but when I turn it back on, they go down. So, as you can see, there's power when the ignition is on, but when it's off, the car's electrical circuits are completely cut off. I replaced the remote control, but it still won't read it. What's the problem? I'd like your help and suggestions. They've quoted a price of 25,000 TL for the BSI control unit replacement, but unfortunately, I can't afford to have it done because I don't have that kind of money.
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