206 Temperature Indicator Problem

Hello everyone. My problem that has been going on for 1 month is as follows: there is no problem until the car starts first and engine temperature reaches 90. however, 4-5 km after the engine warms up, the car will beep and the temperature indicator will slowly go to zero. When it completely goes down to zero, the car stops on the road. When the contact is closed, the temperature is zero. each contact rises and stops a little when open and close. When the ignition is turned on and off 4-5 times, the temperature comes back to 90 and the car is running but the engine warning lamp is on as it works, the car stops again. When the engine cools, the car operates as before and the engine warning lamp goes off. It does not show any malfunctions on the computer. the heat sensor changed, resetting the computer from the computer, but my problem still continues. I will be grateful if you could help me. I have a video about the incident in question and I am adding it to the forum, I hope I can add it correctly :)

As the probable temperature sensor is defective, my teacher does not work because the engine protects himself. You have to connect to the fault detection device and look at the error codes.

It was connected to the computer at least 5 times in a month, but no fault code appeared anywhere in the brain and the sensor changed 2 times, unfortunately it has not passed yet

Well if the sockets have been checked, my teacher will be from this grain if there is no communication and there is no contact in the cable.

The master said, we will go through trial and error. He said there is no problem with the cables going to the brain and the brain after the client and the brain. The other day the steering wheel undercarriage opened, whether there is a contact failure. Try it again, he said, I haven't tried it yet. I was tired of stopping on the road for 1 month. Maybe there is a living who knows and I opened the issue to solve it directly f4t1hltn 2018-11-07 17:25:32

My teacher is not understood when he looks at the cables, because there are places that are not visible, while the vehicle is in a state, it may have a short circuit that crushes the cable. I need a good check, I think you can go to a good auto electrician who knows the sockets and cables. If you are in Ankara, I will help you with the master.

I was checking the car as I wrote to you and it did it after the engine warmed up. I'll take it to the master again, but I'm waiting for the engine to cool. I am in Ankara and the master I took was a person who had worked at the Peugeot authorized service for years and this is the first time I have seen such a malfunction. f4t1hltn 2018-11-07 18:25:37

my master is a familiar and very nice person. You have quit the non-working system, but there is no solution to it, master, because the temperature indicator is not working at the moment, the brain does not start the car because the operation of the circulation and fan always depends on this customer. If I show it to another master, it will get all over again. The client will say let's change, and I will say that I have changed. Maybe we will say let's change, and unfortunately everything will turn back. When I took it yesterday, he showed me his tube brain, when he made it again, touch it and let me know if it was hot or cold. While he was on the way, he did it again, I pulled it aside, it was very hot. We put the seal in the first place. We also used the sub-industry. Now, let's put the original, he said. We will try it today. f4t1hltn 2018-11-08 11:45:57

I recommend you check the fan roles.

[QUOTE = f4t1hltn] my master is a familiar and very nice person. You have quit the non-working system, but there is no solution to it, master, because the temperature indicator is not working at the moment, the brain does not start the car because the operation of the circulation and fan always depends on this customer. If I show it to another master, it will get all over again. The client will say let's change, and I will say that I have changed. Maybe we will say let's change, and unfortunately everything will turn back. When I took it yesterday, he showed me his tube brain, when he made it again, touch it and let me know if it was hot or cold. While he was on the way, he did it again, I pulled it aside, it was very hot. We put the seal in the first place. We also used the sub-industry. Now, let's put the original, he said. We will try it today. [/ QUOTE] Hasgör 2018-11-08 19:21:09

fan relays changed 1 month ago 2 pieces. When I went to change with the original sender today, let's start the car while he was there, he showed the heat again at zero and my master immediately connected it to the computer. This time it showed the malfunction. A malfunction such as measurement error occurred in the coolant temperature. We replaced it with the original sender and he deleted the fault. There was no problem on the first try and the Indicator seems to be working more comfortably. I hope I'm not bored here as you say ECU. The cost will be a little big. f4t1hltn 2018-11-08 22:59:08

[QUOTE = f4t1hltn] primarily fan relays changed 1 month ago 2 pieces. When I went to change with the original sender today, let's start the car while he was there, he showed the heat again at zero and my master immediately connected it to the computer. This time it showed the malfunction. A malfunction such as measurement error occurred in the coolant temperature. We replaced it with the original sender and he deleted the fault. There was no problem on the first try and the Indicator seems to be working more comfortably. I hope I'm not bored here as you say ECU. The cost will be a little big. [/ QUOTE] If there is a DTC record, the possibility of ECU failure will be eliminated, so rest assured. In this case, let me give you some technical information about the temperature sensor so that you will both be in the business of someone in the future and decide on the mastery of your master because you have the third customer! ) and these 2 legs are connected directly to the socket (some vehicles have more extensive circuits) Thermistors are elements that change heat resistance (NTC decreases resistance as the temperature increases, PTC vice versa) Thermistors with resistance around 100 kiloohm are generally used in the automotive industry. (I think it is understood that there will be no problems in the sub-industry products in such a simple piece, the only possible problem is that the tolerance value in the sub-industry products may be high, while the original product can measure the temperature with +/- 1% tolerance, while those in the sub-industry are really poor quality and have a +/- 5% tolerance. In this case, the thermistor in the consumer is 5 cents from the china.) Depending on the vehicle software, the ECU has a variable voltage in the range of 0-5 volts returned from the customer that it feeds by taking 5 volts as its reference voltage thanks to the changing resistance of the thermistor. It reads the ADC pin and converts it to digital information and detects the temperature / malfunction. The malfunction malfunction is recorded with DT codes such as p0115, 116, 117, and the meanings of these codes are inconsistent data like other sensor malfunctions (short circuit / transmission problems in cables and sockets). bi), high signal (5 volt rotation from sender), low signal (0 volt rotation from sender), etc. points to the main problems. When the vehicle is connected to the computer, the source of the problem is understood very simply. If the PC software shows -50 degrees when the socket socket is removed, and +150 degrees when the socket ends are short-circuited, the installation is sound, so the client must be tested. The test of the sender can also be done by monitoring the temperature displayed in the PC software regularly in the heating / cooling phases of the engine in line with the logic. Another method is a thermocouple / laser heat meter of engine temperature, etc. is measured by a device and compared with the voltage in the socket. Even the pre-masters who did not know anything could connect a multimeter to the pins of the client to see if it was open / short-circuited. That is to say, they wouldn't mind the customer 3 consecutive times! Engine temperature is one of the indispensable data for ECU such that engine temperature is vital from the high idling speed in cold engine to adjusting the advance by fuel injection. In case of writing fault records such as P0115, the ECU software accepts the engine temperature around 90 degrees and wants to keep the engine running, but the high idle speed that should be in the cold engine, the necessity of keeping the egr valve closed, rich mixture adjustment, keeping the advance low etc. etc. no action is taken, this causes problems such as hard starting, knocking, black smoke throwing, loss of performance or even stopping after starting the engine, be careful here, the problem is when the engine is cold, not hot! HasGur2018-11-09 00:33:50

Sir, first of all, I would like to thank you very much for such a technical answer and ECU failure in my vehicle. As you said, in the first stage, the client had been put in hot water and the indicator had shown in the 70s. As I understand it, mine was experiencing a voltage of 0-5 voltage. Also, when you say you do it on a cold engine, I do it when the engine is hot. because the engine was hot, the temperature was at zero and when it forced the car to start, it stopped and did not start the car after 2-3 attempts. I had to wait for the engine to cool down a bit. However, when the engine is completely cold, there is no problem in the operation of the car. 2-3 km after the engine reaches its own temperature of 90, the car stops and the display shows at zero, and it does what you say when the engine is cold, even though the engine is hot.

[QUOTE = f4t1hltn] initially put the client in hot water and the indicator showed it in the 70s [/ QUOTE]

PEUGEOT LARDA THESE PROBLEMS CHRONIC THESE VEHICLES ARE VERY ELECTRIC IN THE ELECTRICITY AND COST OF HEAVY ....

First of all, unfortunately he gave the same error in the original client. When it was connected to the computer, it gave the cycle indicator malfunction and the error "Unit received at the coolant temperature is wrong" again. My master wired and tightened the crank sensor and the heat sensor socket in case of lack of contact. When the vehicle did the same again, we connected it to the computer again and the rpm did not fail, but the unit measured at the coolant temperature again gave the error wrong. My master also saw himself, while the engine was hot, the temperature was at zero and the car stopped and stopped as soon as the starter was pressed. My car's brain was removed, and unfortunately it could not do anything because they pressed silicone into the brain. He said, "We will take a brain from the last resort, and try." I have to work out to do it today.

[QUOTE = f4t1hltn] First of all, unfortunately it gave the same error in the original client. When it was connected to the computer, it gave the cycle indicator malfunction and the error "Unit received at the coolant temperature is wrong" again. My master wired and tightened the crank sensor and the heat sensor socket in case of lack of contact. When the vehicle did the same again, we connected it to the computer again and the rpm did not fail, but the unit measured at the coolant temperature again gave the error wrong. My master also saw himself, while the engine was hot, the temperature was at zero and the car stopped and stopped as soon as the starter was pressed. My car's brain was removed, and unfortunately it could not do anything because they pressed silicone into the brain. He said, "We will take a brain from the last resort, and try." I'm going to have to work out to do it today. [/ QUOTE]

REPLACE THE VEHICLE IN A MOMENT, NOT A MASTER ...

[QUOTE = 27BEN80] NOT A MASTER, REPLACE THE VEHICLE FIRST ... [/ QUOTE] Hasgör 2018-11-13 13:35:59