206 heater core removal and oring exchange

The cover in the Rear Passenger compartment is removed and the torque wrench is unscrewed. Then a screwdriver and the glass lifting buttons are removed thanks to a plastic apparatus I use. Then the nut under the glass lifting button is 10 mm. We remove the gear bellows. And we came to the place where the heater core is, there is protection insulation as it appears in the photo, it also holds 3 torque screws in it. When we disassemble them in the picture, you will see the leaking joint and the heater core. I disassemble the plastic part that holds the black, green and blue sockets that we see here. To open the working area, I disassemble the gas pedal, because it is electronic, it is easy to disassemble, holds 3 nuts, but there is no need for those with a gas pedal wire but it is good to work comfortably. we are removing. Then you will see two hoses entering the vehicle, these are hot water and cold water outlets to the heater core. In the middle of the dismantled state, we remove one of the torque screws and remove the metal plate and sealing gasket. Then we switch back to the inner part and remove the visible torque screw from the factory, there is only one screw, but since I repaired it, I just applied a liquid gasket, but it leaked again. That's why there are 3 screws. There is one more torque screw in the middle part of the two adherent plastic pipes and don't forget to remove it. I also have a chest rivet on the left door side, again I have taken the photo missing, sorry. When it comes to removing the heater core, you will save it from your nails and pull it to the left. After that, after recovering two adherent pipes, you can remove the honeycomb by tearing the chest. After removing the Buddha, we place the new orings whose original orings are slightly thicker in accordance with the same size and put the assembly back in the same stages, and I have cleaned the liquid gasket residues that I applied more thoroughly. Don't forget to clean the heater core slot. * NOTE: As I said in the original, friends are holding a single screw. I have completed the 2 screws that are missing. sonerkyl2017-12-06 16:30:34

Well done, Soner you did well by opening a detailed topic. In these seasons, there is much need for information about the heater core.

I have my health moderator .... good sharing .... I guess I had it done last night, sweating and water reduction continues.

I could not give a meaning to the dismantling of the center console .. I have the screws of the pin holder.

[QUOTE = dejawu1978] I couldn't give a meaning to the dismantling of the center console .. do you have the screws of the honeycomb pin or do you need to remove the honeycomb to see it more clearly ..? [/ QUOTE]

[QUOTE = Gokceel] Health in your hand Soner you did well by opening a detailed topic. There is a lot of need in these seasons. Information about the heater core. [/ QUOTE]

Hand in health, my friend, I started to drip a little 1-2 weeks ago.

[QUOTE = ersin61] Health buddy in his hand.I started to drip a little bit 1-2 weeks ago.I started screwing more to the place you said. I went to my electrician. QUOTE]

It is true, my friend.

Good job is health for your labor. Maybe I would like to ask something. There are those who know. As if a standard plier doesn't do this.

I remember that while the master was working on my vehicle, he clicked the clamp of the radiator upper hose with a flat screwdriver and opened it. He then put it back in place and tightened the screw and restored it. I don't think a new one should be taken.

First of all, the health brothers are very valuable sharing for the subject. And brother, I have a question for you. Not much to do with the title, but how can I tell if the accelerator pedal is electric or stranded?

[QUOTE = ersin61] It is true, my friend. We have respect for the labor. I am also a consultant. There is no chance to just remove the motor from the engine compartment and pull the 2-pipe towards the engine compartment and change the orings without removing the honeycomb. [/ QUOTE]

[QUOTE = samet206] Good job is health to your labor. I would like to ask something, maybe there are those who know. ? As if a standard plier doesn't do this.
[/ QUOTE]

[QUOTE = OguzhanKucuk61] I remember that while the master was working on my vehicle, he clicked the clamp of the radiator upper hose with a flat screwdriver and opened it. He then put it back in place and tightened the screw and restored it. I don't think a new one should be taken.

First of all, the health brothers are very valuable sharing for the subject. And brother, I have a question for you. Not much to do with the title, but how can I tell if the accelerator pedal is electric or stranded? [/ QUOTE]

[QUOTE = sonerkyl] [QUOTE = ersin61] It is true, my friend. they giriyor.teşekk .. [/ QUOTE] [/ QUOTE]

[QUOTE = sonerkyl] The cover in the Rear Passenger compartment is removed and the torque wrench is unscrewed with a torque wrench. Then a screwdriver and the glass lifting buttons are removed by the plastic apparatus I use. Then the nut under the glass lifting button is 10 mm. We remove the gear bellows. And we came to the place where the heater core is, there is protection insulation as it appears in the photo, it also holds 3 torque screws in it. When we disassemble them in the picture, you will see the leaking joint and the heater core. I disassemble the plastic part that holds the black, green and blue sockets that we see here. To open the working area, I disassemble the gas pedal, because it is electronic, it is easy to disassemble, holds 3 nuts, but there is no need for those with a gas pedal wire but it is good to work comfortably. we are removing. Then you will see two hoses entering the vehicle, these are hot water and cold water outlets to the heater core. In the middle of the dismantled state, we remove one of the torque screws and remove the metal plate and sealing gasket. Then we switch back to the inner part and remove the visible torque screw from the factory, there is only one screw, but since I repaired it, I just applied a liquid gasket, but it leaked again. That's why there are 3 screws. There is one more torque screw in the middle part of the two adherent plastic pipes and don't forget to remove it. I also have a chest rivet on the left door side, again I have taken the photo missing, sorry. When it comes to removing the heater core, you will save it from your nails and pull it to the left. After that, after recovering two adherent pipes, you can remove the honeycomb by tearing the chest. After the Buddha was dismantled, I thoroughly cleaned up the remaining liquid seal residues. We put the new orings, which are a little bit thicker than the original orings of the same size, and collect the same steps back in the assembly. Don't forget to clean the heater core slot. [/ QUOTE] Sister winter has come, if this is a valuable opportunity, can you renew the pictures?

If I find @ doganatak, I will update the pictures hojam.

My vehicle was subtracted from water, but I did not care, it started to become excessive and eventually started dripping from the right foot on the driver's side. My master told me to take it to an electrician or a radiator. Unfortunately, I went to the wrong radiator and said that the front side would be completely removed and looked for, and that it would take 150 for the workmanship within 300. (I was tired of my own master, I was sick of it) The money came too much and I read this forum and at that time, I went to him without opening the car, and when I realized that I would get it, he said we would handle it without disassembling and he gave it to the electrician next to him, but I gave him 200, he said 150. The friends who had read 50 TL for this forum said that the room was already giving 50 to the electrician, and that he spent 2 hours doing something in himself. Even though I knew it wasn't like that, I gave his money and earned 100 TL.

Procedure: Silicon substance was applied to the side of the orings under the driver's place and leakage was prevented. Vehicle 1.6 206