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206 Gas Pump Is An Interesting Problem !! [Solved] |
| • Homepage » PEUGEOT MODELS (FAULTS AND SOLUTIONS) » 206 | |
| 08.05.2020 21:02 | # 1 |
 bilo131 |
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My vehicle has not been running on gasoline for a few days. I was running directly on LPG. I found free time today and rolled up my sleeves. When I opened the vehicle's ignition, there was no buzzing sound coming from behind. After checking the fuses, I saw 12v when I disassembled the motor socket under the back seat and looked at it with a measuring instrument. Then I removed the float, connected the engine directly to the battery and the engine started. The interesting thing is that I open the ignition and remove the motor socket and measure it shows 12v, but I plug it in and measure it over the plug, it shows 0v. Why would the power go out when I connect the motor? I look forward to your help, regards. |
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| 08.05.2020 21:02 | # 2 |
 HasGur |
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[QUOTE = bilo131] Good forums friends, My vehicle has not been running on gasoline for a few days. I was running directly on LPG. I found free time today and rolled up my sleeves. When I opened the vehicle's ignition, there was no buzzing sound coming from behind. After checking the fuses, I saw 12v when I disassembled the motor socket under the back seat and looked at it with a measuring instrument. Then I removed the float, connected the engine directly to the battery and the engine started. The interesting thing is that I open the ignition and remove the motor socket and measure it shows 12v, but I plug it in and measure it over the plug, it shows 0v. Why would the power go out when I connect the motor? I look forward to your help, regards. [/ QUOTE] First of all, if the vehicle is not started after a while after turning on the ignition, the electricity of the pump is cut off. If, during this period, the socket drops to 0 volts; There is a concept called electric charge. If we consider an adapter as a power source, r varies depending on the design of the floor, but the output voltage that it gives when it is connected to the device (load) differs. PM's rneg The adapter, which has a 12-volt 100 milliamp output, can supply 12 volts when connected to a load that draws 100 mA, while it can output 15 volts when not connected to the load. When the same adapter is connected to another device that draws 300 ma at 12 volts, the output voltage of the adapter will dramatically drop to 3-5 volts levels in accordance with the ohm law. Another situation is that in a multi-core supply cable of a 220 volt AC motor, except for 3-5 of the wires in the cable, 220 volts are read at the motor end, but it does not work when the motor is energized and 220 volts cannot be measured at the ends. If the motor is driven with a quality circuit, the motor driver will lead to hair loss in 3-5 wire fault detection if it does not indicate that there is a cable break failure! In other words, as I mentioned before on issues such as steering pump malfunctions, the voltage at the feed ends does not indicate that sufficient current is provided when the loads are high when idle. As your fuel pump operates with direct battery voltage, there is no internal short circuit (when the pump is connected to its own installation, full short circuit will be fuse, but it will not blow when there are a few ohms) First, clean the fuse feet and bearing of the fuel pump. If the problem is not resolved, if your fuses are old, the metals may not be able to pass enough current because they lose their properties over time. If it still does not improve, there is a relay failure or a cable damage, such as in the case of a 220 volt motor. |
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| 08.05.2020 21:02 | # 3 |
| bilo131 |
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[QUOTE = HasGur] [QUOTE = bilo131] Good forums friends, My vehicle has not been running on gasoline for a few days. I was running directly on LPG. I found free time today and rolled up my sleeves. When I opened the vehicle's ignition, there was no buzzing sound coming from behind. After checking the fuses, I saw 12v when I disassembled the motor socket under the back seat and looked at it with a measuring instrument. Then I removed the float, connected the engine directly to the battery and the engine started. The interesting thing is that I open the ignition and remove the motor socket and measure it shows 12v, but I plug it in and measure it over the plug, it shows 0v. Why would the power go out when I connect the motor? I look forward to your help, regards. [/ QUOTE] First of all, if the vehicle is not started after a while after turning on the ignition, the electricity of the pump is cut off. If, during this period, the socket drops to 0 volts; There is a concept called electric charge. If we consider an adapter as a power source, r varies depending on the design of the floor, but the output voltage that it gives when it is connected to the device (load) differs. PM's rneg The adapter, which has a 12-volt 100 milliamp output, can supply 12 volts when connected to a load that draws 100 mA, while it can output 15 volts when not connected to the load. When the same adapter is connected to another device that draws 300 ma at 12 volts, the output voltage of the adapter will dramatically drop to 3-5 volts levels in accordance with the ohm law. Another situation is that in a multi-core supply cable of a 220 volt AC motor, except for 3-5 of the wires in the cable, 220 volts are read at the motor end, but it does not work when the motor is energized and 220 volts cannot be measured at the ends. If the motor is driven with a quality circuit, the motor driver will lead to hair loss in 3-5 wire fault detection if it does not indicate that there is a cable break failure! In other words, as I mentioned before on issues such as steering pump malfunctions, the voltage at the feed ends does not indicate that sufficient current is provided when the loads are high when idle. As your fuel pump operates with direct battery voltage, there is no internal short circuit (when the pump is connected to its own installation, full short circuit will be fuse, but it will not blow when there are a few ohms) First, clean the fuse feet and bearing of the fuel pump. If the problem is not resolved, if your fuses are old, the metals may not be able to pass enough current because they lose their properties over time. If it still does not improve, there is a cable damage, such as the 220 volt motor example. I understood, teacher, I had never thought of that point of view. My guess is most likely from the cable. Because I completely disassembled the float and poured the remaining gasoline, so I connected it outside sockets did not work again. So if I measure Amps at the cable ends, how many should it go? Or does the engine draw too much current? But then he must blow insurance.
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| 08.05.2020 21:02 | # 4 |
 talip206 |
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Well, let me tell you what's going on, the comment is yours. I bought gas in Bolu while I was going from Ankara to Istanbul. I started the car did not work. I tried very hard, I came to mind a gas pump. I worked with the lpg button, the car worked. When I left, I threw it on the gas and stopped again. Anyway, I went to Ankara, said the master pump is defective. We bought a new pump, the master put it on again. Then he dismantled the pump, flexed the inner nails or sockets and put them back. He collected everything, the car worked. Then we tried the pump with the battery. So I think we have wasted the pump. Now there is a problem like this, when the gas runs out, it goes to the gas, sometimes it looks like the gas is over. The pump stops and runs for a short time. Probably again there is contactless in the socket inside the float.
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| 08.05.2020 21:02 | # 5 |
| bilo131 |
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[QUOTE = talip206] Well, let me tell you what happened, your comment. I bought gas in Bolu while I was going from Ankara to Istanbul. I started the car did not work. I tried very hard, I came to mind a gas pump. I worked with the lpg button, the car worked. When I left, I threw it on the gas and stopped again. Anyway, I went to Ankara, said the master pump is defective. We bought a new pump, the master put it on again. Then he dismantled the pump, flexed the inner nails or sockets and put them back. He collected everything, the car worked. Then we tried the pump with the battery. So I think we have wasted the pump. Now there is a problem like this, when the gas runs out, it goes to the gas, sometimes it looks like the gas is over. The pump stops and runs for a short time. Probably there is still no contact in the socket inside the float. [/ QUOTE] Let's see my teacher, I'll try something different tomorrow. Will it connect the motor socket with a light or a relay and cut the current at low amperage. If it works, I will energize the contacts of the relay and trigger the motor from the relay.
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| 08.05.2020 21:02 | # 6 |
| HasGur |
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[QUOTE = bilo131] I understood, teacher, I had never thought of that point of view. My guess is most likely from the cable. Because I completely disassembled the float and poured the remaining gasoline, so I connected it outside sockets did not work again. So if I measure Amps at the cable ends, how many should it go? Or does the engine draw too much current? But then he must blow insurance. [/ QUOTE] The installation cables of the pejos are of high quality, if the installation has not been damaged in the past, it does not cause any problems. The fuel pump works even though it draws more current than it should. If the current drawn exceeds the fuse tolerance, the fuse will blow. You can only measure the current drawn by the pump while it is running. When the vehicle is running on LPG, its cable may be cut and a relay has been placed to prevent the gas pump from operating. Such interventions cause problems in the installation in a short time because our masters who cannot improve themselves are not aware of insulation materials such as heat-shrink tubing or because they are more expensive than tape. Check the connections of this relay, if any, if LPG is installed for a long time, the relay also transfers electricity to the pump (they usually trigger the relay with a gas valve supply, and normally closed contacts provide electrical passage to the gas pump) there may be a problem.
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| 08.05.2020 21:02 | # 7 |
| bilo131 |
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[QUOTE = is Hasgör] [QUOTE = bilo131] I understood, teacher, I had never thought of that point of view. My guess is most likely from the cable. Because I completely disassembled the float and poured the remaining gasoline, so I connected it outside sockets did not work again. So if I measure Amps at the cable ends, how many should it go? Or does the engine draw too much current? But then he must blow insurance. [/ QUOTE] The installation cables of the pejos are of high quality, if the installation has not been damaged in the past, it does not cause any problems. The fuel pump works even though it draws more current than it should. If the current drawn exceeds the fuse tolerance, the fuse will blow. You can only measure the current drawn by the pump while it is running. When the vehicle is running on LPG, its cable may be cut and a relay has been placed to prevent the gas pump from operating. Such interventions cause problems in the installation in a short time because our masters who cannot improve themselves are not aware of insulation materials such as heat-shrink tubing or because they are more expensive than tape. Check the connections of this relay, if any, if LPG is installed for a long time, the relay also transfers electricity to the pump (they usually trigger the relay with a gas valve supply, and normally closed contacts provide electrical passage to the gas pump) there may be a problem. [/ QUOTE] Teacher, it has been 5-6 months since LPG was installed on the vehicle. When I asked the master who was wearing LPG, because the pump is running continuously, there is always gasoline in the tank or the pump will be damaged. So I do not think that the pump is cut and the relay is installed. Also, I saw the paragraph that you wrote from your first message. When the plug is unplugged, the tips show 12v. When installed, 0 volts. I take it out again showing 12v. This goes on like this. As far as I can see in the forum, there was a gas pump relay under the engine brain, does that relay leave contact when it loads? Could it be the problem? Edit I checked the relay. When it gets on the load, the relay does not leave the contact, so there is no problem. But something has happened, I turn the ignition on the + and - ends to the engine and touch each other with a piece of cable. The voltage drops to zero, I disconnect the short circuit and continue to show 12v again. What a strange situation burned my head  |
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| 08.05.2020 21:02 | # 8 |
| HasGur |
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[QUOTE = bilo131] I checked the relay. When it gets on the load, the relay does not leave the contact, so there is no problem. [/ QUOTE] The fact that the relay coil is pulling the contact mechanism does not indicate that the current is passing through the contact as it should, that is, there may be a problem with the relay contacts. [QUOTE = bilo131] But something has happened, I turn the ignition on the + and - ends to the engine and touch each other with a piece of cable. The voltage drops to zero, I disconnect the short circuit and continue to show 12v again. What a strange situation burned my head [/ QUOTE]  What causes sparking is current, not voltage. As I wrote earlier, the voltage at the cable end does not indicate that sufficient current is provided. There is a high probability that the pump has a transmission or ground or + voltage (fuse or bearing, relay, socket etc.) transmission. On the other hand, shorting the + voltage with the chassis is not a good test method. For a line with 10 amp fuse, it will draw about 5 amps of current, h1 / h7 etc. You can safely experiment with a 55 watt headlight bulb.
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| 08.05.2020 21:02 | # 9 |
| bilo131 |
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[QUOTE = is Hasgör] [QUOTE = bilo131] I checked the relay. When it gets on the load, the relay does not leave the contact, so there is no problem. [/ QUOTE] The fact that the relay coil is pulling the contact mechanism does not indicate that the current is passing through the contact as it should, that is, there may be a problem with the relay contacts. [QUOTE = bilo131] But something has happened, I turn the ignition on the + and - ends to the engine and touch each other with a piece of cable. The voltage drops to zero, I disconnect the short circuit and continue to show 12v again. What a strange situation burned my head [/ QUOTE] What causes sparking is current, not voltage. As I wrote earlier, the voltage at the cable end does not indicate that sufficient current is provided. There is a high probability that the pump has a transmission or ground or + voltage (fuse or bearing, relay, socket etc.) transmission. On the other hand, shorting the + voltage with the chassis is not a good test method. For a line with 10 amp fuse, it will draw about 5 amps of current, h1 / h7 etc. You can safely experiment with a 55 watt headlight bulb. [/ QUOTE] Okay, teacher, I have eaten you too. Tomorrow I will go to the center and buy a new relay and try it out. Also, let me check the insurance from the start and replace it if it is not necessary. Yes, as you said, I was controlling with the h7 bulb, accidentally the tips were worth, I continued to try
 otherwise I absolutely agree with you, it is not wise to spark  |
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| 08.05.2020 21:02 | # 10 |
| bilo131 |
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Yes friends, I solved my problem. The problem arose at the contacts of the gasoline pump relay. I had checked the outside hands before. When I turned on the ignition, there was a clicking sound. But I was wrong. Even if it clicked, this did not mean that the relay's contacts were working properly. I added your picture, the socket of the relay has melted its contacts and it has gotten solders in it. I wanted to buy and install a new relay, but went to an electronics store I know and renewed the solders inside the relay. I applied this way because it was the original relay. The original relay was around 250 TL. I gave 50 TL and got it done. If there are friends who have the same problem, first of all, it is necessary to look at the relay.   |
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| 08.05.2020 21:02 | # 11 |
 sonerkyl |
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Thanks for the feedback and teacher. Get well soon. I'm glad your problem has been improved.
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| 08.05.2020 21:02 | # 12 |
 Kysr038 |
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I would appreciate it if anyone can help with photo about the location of this relay or socket. I couldn't find it on the internet either
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| 08.05.2020 21:02 | # 13 |
| bilo131 |
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The brain where exactly I showed it with the arrow. It's probably holding a single screw. When you disassemble it, you will see the twin relay attached to it with a screw.  |
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| 08.05.2020 21:02 | # 14 |
| Kysr038 |
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Thank you very much
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