206 1.4 About Gasoline Sente Adjustment - 206

Greetings to all fitness residents, good evening.

Please, I would be very happy if relevant and knowledgeable friends read the subject and share information.

I recently bought a Peugeot 206 1.4 petrol vehicle. I am satisfied with the general lines of the vehicle. However, I dismantled the upper part of the vehicle in the parking lot of my house in order to investigate the source of the ripple in the idle, the oiling in the upper cover part and the snoring sound heard in the throttle (I have some hand tendency). The potentiometer and Maf sensor of the vehicle has been cleared. However, I saw excessive lubrication and soot in the vehicle's intake manifold. The cylinder head cover was removed for oil leakage. Then I manually checked the valve adjustment. I saw that the intake valves were too gaped and the exhaust valves were too tight. Since I could not lift the vehicle when the weather conditions were bad, I checked the valve clearance by pressing the starter of the vehicle. intake valves were almost 0.6 and exhausts were around 0.2. The vehicle had an engine noise that could be considered neural until then, but the idle fluctuation. I What happened?

I removed the timing belt top protection cover. I brought the 4th cylinder to the synthesizer by turning the eccentric gear RIGHT OR LEFT with the help of the key. In the 1st cylinder, the intake valve was too hollow and the exhaust valve was too tight. I made the setting with Sentil. However, when I wanted to continue again, my strength was not enough. Until then, I had not been able to remove the spark plugs without the appropriate wrench. I said probably because of that and gave the engine small movements with the starter. Then I tried adjusting only the sucks with a little bit of wrench and a little starter. However, it just didn't happen. I saw that the gap in the valves increased again after each adjustment. I tried to adjust all the intake valves one by one in this way about 3/4 turns. But each time the gap increased again. So much so ... there were no more threads left in the valve adjustment screws.

I pressed the starter again and the 4th cylinder intake valve broke with a cock. Saying what happened ... I disassembled the forced rocker mechanism and saw that not all intake valves were moving. BEFORE DISASSEMBLING, again with the key on the eccentric, I fulfilled the eccentric mark on the cover and fixed it. I then removed the timing belt. Exhausts flexed when pressed by hand, but suckers did not stretch. I removed the cylinder head and saw that all the intake valves were bent.

The whole event took place as I explained above. I called a few masters and they said they couldn't help. That's why I have to collect it myself.

1- I changed all the valves. I tightly installed all of them with valve lapping paste.

2- I changed the rooster on the rocker.

3- I renewed the cylinder head gasket.

Now ... what might be causing this malfunction? I think I got over the sente, but I haven't exerted enough strength to get through the cent. They talk about two signs to control the synth. One is on the exhaust hood and the other is a small hole just to the right of the right filter. I will say that it is because I have reduced the gap of the valves, the gaps in the feeler gauge were already quite high. Eventually I would do 0.2 for suction and 0.4 for exhausts (I didn't touch them).

I made a shaft of 6mm diameter that could fit into that hole. Since the belt is removed, I have to turn the engine from below over the crank. I push the shaft, but even though I spin the motor full turn, any locking etc. I do not encounter with.

I would appreciate it if you could help me with how to center this crank. I must find the synth now. Because I turned the engine while the top cover was removed.

tolgakmg 2021-01-31 00:31:25

My problem is where the 6 in the upper left corner in the image above. I had a long shaft built for it. But as I said, although I turned the crank one full turn, I did not encounter any kind of locking or strain. There are no other holes on the left and right.

Good evening. I have finalized the cents of the tool. Let me share with you for interested friends.

< / div>

Place a 6mm diameter shaft by bending it in L shape where it is seen in the two pictures above. While turning the motor from the krang shaft in the direction of the right hand, press the shaft towards the hole at the same time. As the 1st and 4th cylinders are near the top point, slowly push the shaft inward. When the 1st and 4th cylinders are in the upper dead point, the shaft is fully seated in the hole and the krang is now fixed. The position of the pistons is as follows.

For the cover, turn the

gear until it corresponds to the circle shown on the cover. Install an M6 bolt in that part.

in this position, to check that your settings are correct; The 1st cylinder will be in its top position, that is, in the ignition position. For this, make sure that the eccentric cams point downwards.

Again, the 4th cylinder should be in the sente position. . that is, when the 4th cylinder is in the upper dead point, the cams should be in the position of overlapping both valves.

tolgakmg 2021-01-31 22:21:08

Get well soon. Peugeot 1.4 engines are actually one of the easiest engines. It is also very easy to synthesize. My advice is to watch foreign videos on youtube. There are dozens of videos. You will get clearer answers if you search in English.

Did you remove the timing belt while adjusting the valve? I did not understand how such a thing happened. The trigger is not dismantled for valve adjustment. Either you turned it in the opposite direction or somehow the tension loosened.

talip206 2021-02-01 01:04:25

[QUOTE = talip206] Get well soon. Peugeot 1.4 engines are actually one of the easiest engines. It is also very easy to synthesize. My advice is to watch foreign videos on youtube. There are dozens of videos. You will get clearer answers if you search in English.

[/ QUOTE]

Good night. Thank you first. As you said, I followed the videos and found their synthesis in the light of the information I got from foreign sources. I will collect the vehicle within this week.

As you said the problem is ... the bending of the valves. I did not remove the trigger for adjustment. But I turned it in both directions several times to fulfill the adjustment. Even the screw of the eccentric gear loosened sometime ... I have never experienced this problem in my previous vehicles. As I read from a source, it says: Never turn the timing belt counter-clockwise. I think I got through the synthesis at that time. If I cannot detect the problem .... I am worried that I may return the same fault again.

tolgakmg 2021-02-01 01:13:54

You can do it, teacher, it won't be a problem. When you collect the worst, you take it to a master for the cents adjustment.

Let me remind you from foreign sources etc. Don't be confused while researching. In Buzim vehicles, the cylinder sequence starts from the gearbox and continues towards the trigger side.

The cylinder on the leftmost, namely the timing side, becomes the 4th cylinder.

When you face the engine, the cylinder row goes from left to right as 4,3,2,1.

[TUBE] q70LzA6Y6nA [/ TUBE]

Friends Good evening. I collected the tool today. After doing all the checks, I started the vehicle. The vehicle started in a very short time. It's okay with the gas, but I couldn't find the cause of this strange frowning If I say advance, there is no such sound at idle. There is no misfire in his work, but there is a strange sound. This voice is heard intermittently from time to time and from time to time. what do you think could be

It looks more like the sound of metal hitting left and right than a steady sound. A broken metal part or a falling screw may be hitting left or right.

Talip, good night. As you have stated, an aluminum piece, which I cannot find how and in what way it entered, falls into the 4th cylinder. It makes this sound because it hits the valve springs in the 4th cylinder. Yesterday I removed the cylinder head of the vehicle and made the necessary repairs, then reattached it to the vehicle today and managed to operate it without any problems.

The condition of the vehicle's cylinder head.

4. there was no serious damage to the piston. Small hits only. sanded and cleaned. Also, there was no scratch or damage on the cylinder surface.

This piece came out of cylinder 4. I do not understand what is part of what. bolt end etc. not that.

I repaired it and put it back on.

< div>

The vehicle is currently running well

Let's get well soon. Engine sound sounds good.

Probably because of the heat and pressure of the part that went in it became this.

Injectors or spark plugs may have entered through the hole when you disassembled.

Have you checked your screwdriver bits? It looks like screwdriver bits used as a disassemble. Or it could be a screw.

talip206 2021-02-09 23:53:16

Thank you. Actually, if I say I survived very cheaply If this piece was steel, I would probably pierce the piston. Fortunately, compression ratios in aluminum and gasoline vehicles are not as high as diesel. If this part was in a diesel engine ... I probably also damaged the piston and the piston rod. Looking at the size of the part, it is very unlikely to pass through the valves. Maybe a stamp. I could not figure out what happened and where it came from. tolgakmg 2021-02-09 23:58:18

Sir, I have a cover gasket problem, I'm starting to remove the cover this Friday. Do you have any suggestions? Where should I pay attention? I'm handy, I have tools.

01.02.2021 01:11	# 7
tolgakmg
[QUOTE = talip206] Get well soon. Peugeot 1.4 engines are actually one of the easiest engines. It is also very easy to synthesize. My advice is to watch foreign videos on youtube. There are dozens of videos. You will get clearer answers if you search in English. Did you remove the timing belt while adjusting the valve? I did not understand how such a thing happened. The trigger is not dismantled for valve adjustment. Either you turned it in the opposite direction or somehow the tension loosened. [/ QUOTE] Good night. Thank you first. As you said, I followed the videos and found their synthesis in the light of the information I got from foreign sources. I will collect the vehicle within this week. As you said the problem is ... the bending of the valves. I did not remove the trigger for adjustment. But I turned it in both directions several times to fulfill the adjustment. Even the screw of the eccentric gear loosened sometime ... I have never experienced this problem in my previous vehicles. As I read from a source, it says: Never turn the timing belt counter-clockwise. I think I got through the synthesis at that time. If I cannot detect the problem .... I am worried that I may return the same fault again. tolgakmg 2021-02-01 01:13:54

09.02.2021 23:28	# 12
tolgakmg
The condition of the vehicle's cylinder head. 4. there was no serious damage to the piston. Small hits only. sanded and cleaned. Also, there was no scratch or damage on the cylinder surface. This piece came out of cylinder 4. I do not understand what is part of what. bolt end etc. not that. I repaired it and put it back on. < div> [TUBE] YdM3a4KHgj8 [/ TUBE] The vehicle is currently running well

26.10.2022 11:50	# 15
ByYlmzZz
Sir, I have a cover gasket problem, I'm starting to remove the cover this Friday. Do you have any suggestions? Where should I pay attention? I'm handy, I have tools.

	206 1.4 About Gasoline Sente Adjustment
• Homepage » PEUGEOT MODELS (FAULTS AND SOLUTIONS) » 206

31.01.2021 00:03	# 1
tolgakmg
Greetings to all fitness residents, good evening. Please, I would be very happy if relevant and knowledgeable friends read the subject and share information. I recently bought a Peugeot 206 1.4 petrol vehicle. I am satisfied with the general lines of the vehicle. However, I dismantled the upper part of the vehicle in the parking lot of my house in order to investigate the source of the ripple in the idle, the oiling in the upper cover part and the snoring sound heard in the throttle (I have some hand tendency). The potentiometer and Maf sensor of the vehicle has been cleared. However, I saw excessive lubrication and soot in the vehicle's intake manifold. The cylinder head cover was removed for oil leakage. Then I manually checked the valve adjustment. I saw that the intake valves were too gaped and the exhaust valves were too tight. Since I could not lift the vehicle when the weather conditions were bad, I checked the valve clearance by pressing the starter of the vehicle. intake valves were almost 0.6 and exhausts were around 0.2. The vehicle had an engine noise that could be considered neural until then, but the idle fluctuation. I What happened? I removed the timing belt top protection cover. I brought the 4th cylinder to the synthesizer by turning the eccentric gear RIGHT OR LEFT with the help of the key. In the 1st cylinder, the intake valve was too hollow and the exhaust valve was too tight. I made the setting with Sentil. However, when I wanted to continue again, my strength was not enough. Until then, I had not been able to remove the spark plugs without the appropriate wrench. I said probably because of that and gave the engine small movements with the starter. Then I tried adjusting only the sucks with a little bit of wrench and a little starter. However, it just didn't happen. I saw that the gap in the valves increased again after each adjustment. I tried to adjust all the intake valves one by one in this way about 3/4 turns. But each time the gap increased again. So much so ... there were no more threads left in the valve adjustment screws. I pressed the starter again and the 4th cylinder intake valve broke with a cock. Saying what happened ... I disassembled the forced rocker mechanism and saw that not all intake valves were moving. *BEFORE DISASSEMBLING, again with the key on the eccentric, I fulfilled the eccentric mark on the cover and fixed it. I then removed the timing belt.* Exhausts flexed when pressed by hand, but suckers did not stretch. I removed the cylinder head and saw that all the intake valves were bent. The whole event took place as I explained above. I called a few masters and they said they couldn't help. That's why I have to collect it myself. 1- I changed all the valves. I tightly installed all of them with valve lapping paste. 2- I changed the rooster on the rocker. 3- I renewed the cylinder head gasket. Now ... what might be causing this malfunction? I think I got over the sente, but I haven't exerted enough strength to get through the cent. They talk about two signs to control the synth. One is on the exhaust hood and the other is a small hole just to the right of the right filter. I will say that it is because I have reduced the gap of the valves, the gaps in the feeler gauge were already quite high. Eventually I would do 0.2 for suction and 0.4 for exhausts (I didn't touch them). I made a shaft of 6mm diameter that could fit into that hole. Since the belt is removed, I have to turn the engine from below over the crank. I push the shaft, but even though I spin the motor full turn, any locking etc. I do not encounter with. I would appreciate it if you could help me with how to center this crank. I must find the synth now. Because I turned the engine while the top cover was removed. tolgakmg 2021-01-31 00:31:25

31.01.2021 00:09	# 3
tolgakmg
My problem is where the 6 in the upper left corner in the image above. I had a long shaft built for it. But as I said, although I turned the crank one full turn, I did not encounter any kind of locking or strain. There are no other holes on the left and right.

31.01.2021 22:05	# 4
tolgakmg
Good evening. I have finalized the cents of the tool. Let me share with you for interested friends. < / div> Place a 6mm diameter shaft by bending it in L shape where it is seen in the two pictures above. While turning the motor from the krang shaft in the direction of the right hand, press the shaft towards the hole at the same time. As the 1st and 4th cylinders are near the top point, slowly push the shaft inward. When the 1st and 4th cylinders are in the upper dead point, the shaft is fully seated in the hole and the krang is now fixed. The position of the pistons is as follows.

31.01.2021 22:19	# 5
tolgakmg
For the cover, turn the gear until it corresponds to the circle shown on the cover. Install an M6 bolt in that part. in this position, to check that your settings are correct; The 1st cylinder will be in its top position, that is, in the ignition position. For this, make sure that the eccentric cams point downwards. Again, the 4th cylinder should be in the sente position. . that is, when the 4th cylinder is in the upper dead point, the cams should be in the position of overlapping both valves. tolgakmg 2021-01-31 22:21:08

01.02.2021 00:54	# 6
talip206
Get well soon. Peugeot 1.4 engines are actually one of the easiest engines. It is also very easy to synthesize. My advice is to watch foreign videos on youtube. There are dozens of videos. You will get clearer answers if you search in English. Did you remove the timing belt while adjusting the valve? I did not understand how such a thing happened. The trigger is not dismantled for valve adjustment. Either you turned it in the opposite direction or somehow the tension loosened. talip206 2021-02-01 01:04:25

01.02.2021 14:41	# 8
talip206
You can do it, teacher, it won't be a problem. When you collect the worst, you take it to a master for the cents adjustment. Let me remind you from foreign sources etc. Don't be confused while researching. In Buzim vehicles, the cylinder sequence starts from the gearbox and continues towards the trigger side. The cylinder on the leftmost, namely the timing side, becomes the 4th cylinder. When you face the engine, the cylinder row goes from left to right as 4,3,2,1.

06.02.2021 19:24	# 9
tolgakmg
[TUBE] q70LzA6Y6nA [/ TUBE] Friends Good evening. I collected the tool today. After doing all the checks, I started the vehicle. The vehicle started in a very short time. It's okay with the gas, but I couldn't find the cause of this strange frowning If I say advance, there is no such sound at idle. There is no misfire in his work, but there is a strange sound. This voice is heard intermittently from time to time and from time to time. what do you think could be

08.02.2021 00:16	# 10
talip206
It looks more like the sound of metal hitting left and right than a steady sound. A broken metal part or a falling screw may be hitting left or right.

09.02.2021 23:14	# 11
tolgakmg
Talip, good night. As you have stated, an aluminum piece, which I cannot find how and in what way it entered, falls into the 4th cylinder. It makes this sound because it hits the valve springs in the 4th cylinder. Yesterday I removed the cylinder head of the vehicle and made the necessary repairs, then reattached it to the vehicle today and managed to operate it without any problems.

09.02.2021 23:52	# 13
talip206
Let's get well soon. Engine sound sounds good. Probably because of the heat and pressure of the part that went in it became this. Injectors or spark plugs may have entered through the hole when you disassembled. Have you checked your screwdriver bits? It looks like screwdriver bits used as a disassemble. Or it could be a screw. talip206 2021-02-09 23:53:16

09.02.2021 23:56	# 14
tolgakmg
Thank you. Actually, if I say I survived very cheaply If this piece was steel, I would probably pierce the piston. Fortunately, compression ratios in aluminum and gasoline vehicles are not as high as diesel. If this part was in a diesel engine ... I probably also damaged the piston and the piston rod. Looking at the size of the part, it is very unlikely to pass through the valves. Maybe a stamp. I could not figure out what happened and where it came from. tolgakmg 2021-02-09 23:58:18